The blustery days of March are upon us, and the weather can play tricks on our souls. One day it may be sunny and warm, and the next can be cold and snowy. Remember 1993? The first week of March was sparkling and warm. The next? The blizzard of the century hit, and the mountains and valley were covered with feet of snow. No matter how whimsical the weather, March is always a good time for stew, the kind that takes hours and fills the house with delicious, tempting smells.

There’s nothing quite as comforting as coming in from the cold and warming yourself with a steamy bowl of hearty beef stew. Its rich gravy and tender veggies are second only to mouthwatering chunks of beef that have been simmering for hours, marrying the marvel of flavors and textures.

Stews are one of those dishes that never create a whirlwind of excitement; there’s really nothing glamorous about them. Nonetheless, they continue to be one of winter’s most popular meals because there’s nothing that satisfies quite as much.

And when the family gathers on a chilly night, stew is an ideal meal. There’s no last-minute prep, and one recipe feeds the crowd.

They come in various concoctions. Not all contain beef. Some are made with chicken. Others have more of an African angle, adding okra and even peanuts to the mix. But tradition rules in most households, including mine.

I make beef stew as soon as the thermometer plunges, using a recipe that’s a little different. Rather than simmering the stew in a Dutch oven on the stovetop, my recipe calls for putting it in the oven on a low temperature, then baking it for hours. Tapioca, added as a thickener, results in a delicious gravy. A cup of red wine boosts the flavor.

Add whatever vegetables you like. My kids didn’t like cooked carrots, so when they were young, I’d double up on the onions and potatoes. Now I sometimes add sweet potatoes for color and extra vitamins.

I found the recipe years ago in “The Original Tennessee Homecoming Cookbook,” which came out in 1985 when then-Gov. Lamar Alexander launched a statewide campaign to celebrate the state’s history, including our culinary history. The cookbook is filled with recipes from cooks across the state, such as Lorraine Whitler of Nashville, who contributed her Five-Hour Beef Stew to the mix. Like many recipes that cooks have had for years, I have tweaked this one with the addition of red wine. If you don’t have any on hand, try adding some beer or cola for a different flavor. I’ve also made it with leftover lamb and, if I have any, lamb gravy. It’s surprising how forgiving beef stew can be.

Five-Hour Beef Stew

• 1 1/2 pounds chuck roast, cut into bite-size pieces
• 1 cup celery, chunked
• 4 carrots, chunked
• 2-3 medium potatoes, chunked
• 1 onion, sliced or large dice
• 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs
• 1 large can tomatoes
• 1 cup red wine, optional
• 1 Tbsp. salt
• 2 Tbsp. sugar
• 4-5 Tbsp. minute tapioca
• 2-3 generous splashes of
• Worcestershire sauce

Do not brown the meat. Combine all ingredients in a large baking dish with a tight-fitting lid or cover securely with foil. Bake in a 250-degree oven for 5-6 hours. Do not hurry this stew. The slow oven is the key to success.
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Contact Anne Braly at [email protected] or annebraly.com

“Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook.” By Dorie Greenspan. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. 357 pages. $35.
This book is not Greenspan’s latest, but it is one of her best, in my opinion. It presents dishes that are not too complicated with ingredients that are easily available. The author says that the recipes are for “the food I make all the time,” and I think you will want to add them to your repertoire.

I was inspired to pore over this book, published a few years back, after reading Louise Penny’s monthly newsletter where she talked about some of her upcoming book talks in Canada, and how she was looking forward to visiting with Dorie Greenspan and her husband Michael in Paris. (You can check it out and subscribe at [email protected].) It reminded me that lots of Greenspan’s menu items are especially appropriate for spring.

Greenspan writes that she likes to “sneak in a little surprise” in her cooking. Thus, she might add some walnuts and oats to her meatballs, or cranberries to her beef stew. She says these additions are often prompted by the fact that she has a leftover in her fridge that is just begging to be used.

“These recipes, most of which are simple, turn out food that’s comforting, satisfying, inviting and so often surprising. I love when there’s something unexpected in a dish, especially when it’s in a dish we think we know well.”

The first recipe included here today is for a salad that delights in both its appearance and its taste. Who doesn’t love fresh berries, tangy grapefruit, and smooth avocado?

Spring Avocado and Berry Salad

• 1 Ruby Red grapefruit
• 2 or 3 limes
• Tiny pinch of sugar
• Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 6 large or 9 medium strawberries, hulled
• 2 large ripe but firm avocados
• 1/2 jalapeno, seeded and finely diced or sliced
• About 1/2 Tsp. pink peppercorns
• Fresh cilantro leaves
• A few fresh basil leaves, torn

Section the grapefruit, squeeze the juice left in the membranes into a small bowl, and reserve. Squeeze 2 tablespoons lime juice (from 1 large lime or 2 smaller ones). Put 1 ½ tablespoons of the grapefruit juice and the lime juice in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Add the sugar, a big pinch of salt, some black pepper, and the oil and shake vigorously to blend. Taste to see if you want to adjust the seasonings and set aside.

Slice the strawberries. You can make the salad ahead up to this point a few hours ahead, refrigerate the grapefruit and berries, and keep the vinaigrette at room temperature.

When you’re ready to serve, cut the remaining lime in half. Working with one avocado at a time, slice each one in half from top to bottom, remove the pit and cut each half into long, slender slices - you’ll get 6 to 8 slices from each half. Lay the slices out on a platter and immediately sprinkle them with lime juice. Season with salt and pepper. Scatter over the grapefruit and strawberries, followed by the jalapeno, pink peppercorns - pinch them between your fingertips to crack them - a few grinds of black pepper, and another squeeze or two of lime juice. Shake the vinaigrette to blend again and drizzle it over the salad; you may not need it all.  Finish with cilantro, basil, and a sprinkle of salt. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

All the rage these days, the next recipe is a one-pan version that will come together quickly and leave you time to set the table, whip up a side dish, and even relax for a minute before you eat. You can substitute chicken breasts for the whole chicken legs.

Balsamic Chicken with Baby Potatoes and Mushrooms

• 1 1/2 pounds small potatoes, scrubbed and halved if large
• 1/2 pound white mushrooms, wiped clean, trimmed and cut in half if large
• 1 large shallot or medium onion, cut into 8 wedges rinsed and patted dry
• 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
• 8 springs fresh rosemary
• 8 springs fresh thyme
• Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
• 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 4 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
• 4 whole skin-on chicken legs, patted dry

Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 450 degrees. Rub a baking sheet with a little oil or line it with foil and oil the foil.

Put the potatoes, mushrooms, shallot or onion, and garlic in a large bowl. Toss in four springs each of the rosemary and thyme, one teaspoon salt, a few grindings of pepper, three tablespoons of the oil, and three tablespoons of the balsamic. Mix everything well and spread the ingredients out on the baking sheet.

Put the chicken in the bowl, along with the remaining oil, balsamic, half teaspoon salt, and a good amount of pepper, and mix well to coat the chicken. Tuck the remaining herbs under each piece.    

Roast the chicken for 40 minutes to one hour, until a thermometer stuck into the thickest part of a thigh measures 165 degrees.

Serve everything on the baking sheet or a big platter; pour over the cooking juices. Makes four servings.

The last recipe is for a side that combines Brussels sprouts with sweet maple syrup and savory mustard. The crunchy bacon that’s tossed in at the last moment makes the dish even more memorable.

Maple Syrup and Mustard Brussels Sprouts

• 1 pound Brussels sprouts, regular or mini, trimmed and, if large, cut in half from top to bottom
• Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
• 1 to 2 garlic cloves, germ removed, cut into slivers
• 1 shallot, cut into slivers, rinsed, and patted dry
• 6 strips thick-cut bacon
• 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup
• 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard (grainy, smooth, or a mix, preferably French) or more to taste
• 1 Tbsp. olive oil
• Cider vinegar (optional)

Set up a steamer. Season the Brussels sprouts with salt and pepper and toss them with the garlic and shallot. Steam the sprouts until the tip of a small knife can easily poke into but not completely pierce them, eight to 10 minutes. Remove the sprouts from the steamer and set them aside. If you are doing this ahead of time, dunk them in ice water or run cold water over them to stop the cooking then pat them dry. You can cook them one day ahead and store in refrigerator. Bring to room temperature or warm them by cooking gently before proceeding.    

While the sprouts are steaming, cook the bacon in a large saucepan or high-sided skillet until crisp. Drain it on paper towels, then coarsely chop into bite-sized pieces Set the pan aside.
Mix the maple syrup and mustard together.

Pour off all but about one tablespoon of the bacon fat from the skillet and add the olive oil to the pan. Turn the heat to high, and when the oil is shimmering, add the Brussels sprouts. Cook, turning a few times, until the sprouts are charred here and there and crisp-tender. Lower the heat to medium and stir in the maple-mustard mixture. Cook, stirring, until the sprouts are uniformly glazed. Stir in the bacon, season with salt and pepper, then taste and add more syrup and/or mustard, if needed. If you’d like a touch of acidity, add a splash of vinegar.

Serve immediately. Makes four servings.

by Karin Glendenning

“Preppy Kitchen: Recipes for Seasonal Dishes and Simple Pleasures” by John Kanell. Simon Element. 320 Pages. $32.50.

This brand-new volume gathers recipes from the Preppy Kitchen, the author’s digital cooking site, into a well-organized, beautifully illustrated, and interesting cookbook. Divided into sections celebrating the seasons, it offers many tips on how to prepare and serve inventive recipes. Lots of the entries are familiar to those who love to cook, but here they are distinguished by Kanell’s flair.

The book includes ideas for serving and for making special occasion meals as well as everyday fare. While Kanell is well-known for his luscious desserts, he includes recipes here from “soup to nuts.” Today we focus on winter dishes, since that season is still with us. But the chapters titled Spring, Summer, and Autumn meals are also most welcome.

I usually prepare a cheesy egg strata casserole for Christmas brunch, omitting the sausage so my vegetarian kin can enjoy it. But I don’t think I’ve ever considered fixing a strata as a main dish for supper until I saw Kanell’s Tomato and Sausage Strata. I can’t wait to try this following recipe because it is full of ingredients I love and has the added benefit of needing to be prepared ahead of time. All you really have to serve with it is a tossed green salad, some hot curried fruit, and a rich, chocolaty dessert. What a wonderful menu for an informal winter supper!


Tomato and Sausage Strata

• Unsalted butter or nonstick cooking spray for the pan
• 1 cup sun-dried tomatoes, julienned
• 1/2 cup boiling water
• 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 pound ground breakfast sausage
• 1/2 large sweet onion, diced
• 6 large eggs
• 2 cups whole milk
• 1/2 cup whipping cream or half and half
• 2 Tsp. kosher salt
• 1 Tsp. Italian seasoning
• 1/2 Tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 1 (1-pound) loaf crusty sourdough bread, cut into 1-inch cubes
• 1 (6-ounce) jar pitted green olives, drained and cut in half
• 1 pound fresh mozzarella, drained
• and cut into 12-inch chunks, or use mozzarella pearls
• Fresh basil, thinly sliced, for serving

    
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 13-by-9-inch or 3-quart baking dish or spray with nonstick cooking spray and set aside.

In a medium bowl, cover the sun-dried tomatoes with the boiling water and set aside to soften.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and cook, breaking up the sausage with the back of a spoon, until it is just browned, about five minutes. Add the onion and continue cooking for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove the pan from the heat. If the sausage is especially greasy, drain off the fat.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, cream, salt, Italian seasoning, and pepper. Add the bread cubes and toss to coat the bread completely. Let stand for five minutes, tossing occasionally to help the bread absorb the liquid evenly.

Drain the sun-dried tomatoes thoroughly and add them to the bread mixture. Add the olives, cooked sausage and onion, and mozzarella. Pour the mixture into the prepared baking dish, gently pressing down with your hands to evenly distribute the mixture. Cover the dish loosely with foil and bake for 35 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking until the top is golden brown and the center is set, about 30 more minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes and top with the fresh basil before serving. Refrigerate any leftovers for up to three days. Makes eight servings.

The next recipe, also in the “Winter” section of the book, is an elegant and easy-to-prepare seafood dish that just begs to be served to a ladies-who-lunch group. While the stars of this dish are the tender shrimp and scallops, it’s the vermouth-laced sauce and the crunchy browned-butter breadcrumbs that make it so yummy. Roasted asparagus, scalloped tomatoes, and small buttery rolls would make delicious accompaniments, followed by a warm fruit cobbler. Kanell suggests that if you can’t find bay scallops, you can quarter larger ones.

Mini Seafood Gratins with Garlic Bread Crumbs

• 3 thick slices artisan sourdough bread
• 5 Tbsp. unsalted butter
• 2 Tbsp. minced garlic (about 6 cloves)
• 1 1/2 Tsp. kosher salt
• 3 shallots, peeled and minced
• 3 Tbsp. plus 2 teaspoons flour
• 1 1/4 cups heavy whipping cream
• 1/2 cup dry vermouth
• 1 cup shredded Gruyere cheese
• 2 Tbsp. minced fresh tarragon, plus more for garnish
• Zest of 1 lemon, plus more for garnish
• 1 Tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more for garnish
• 1 pound small shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1 pound bay scallops

Preheat oven to 375. Place six (8-ounce) oven-safe ramekins or gratin dishes on a rimmed baking sheet and set aside.

Cut any hard crusts off the sourdough slices. Finely chop the bread with a chef’s knife or pulse in a food processor until coarsely ground. Place the bread cubes in a large bowl and set aside.

In a large skillet, melt three tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat until foaming and starting to brown. Add one tablespoon of the minced garlic and cook, stirring constantly, until very fragrant, about one minute. Add the garlic to the breadcrumbs, plus 1/2 teaspoon of the salt, and toss to combine.

In the same skillet over medium heat, melt the remaining two tablespoons of butter. Add the shallot and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and beginning to brown, three to five minutes. Stir in the remaining tablespoon of garlic and cook for one minute more. Add the flour and cook, stirring constantly for one minute. Slowly stir in the cream and vermouth, bring to a simmer, and cook for another minute.

Stir in the cheese a few tablespoons at a time until incorporated. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the tarragon, lemon zest, pepper, and the remaining teaspoon of salt. Fold in the shrimp and scallops and turn to coat thoroughly. Divide the seafood mixture among the ramekins and top with the breadcrumbs.

Bake the gratins until the seafood is just cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. If the breadcrumbs are not browned, broil for one to two minutes. Let cool slightly before serving and garnish with additional tarragon, lemon zest, and pepper, if desired. Makes six servings.

The following dessert recipe combines the sublime creaminess of cheesecake with the zesty tang of oranges and the surprise spice of a gingersnap crust. A plus is that it needs to be prepared ahead of time and garnished only at the last minute. (This recipe would probably be best prepared using the mise en place system.)

Brûléed Blood Orange Cheesecake

For the Crust:

• 8 ounces (36) gingersnap cookies
• 2 Tbsp. sugar
• 1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted

For the Filling:

1. 3 (8-ounce) blocks cream cheese, room temperature
2. 1 cup sugar
3. 1/4 Tsp. kosher salt
4. 1/3 cup sour cream, room temperature
5. 2 Tsp. orange zest (from about 2 blood oranges)
6. 2 Tsp. vanilla extract
7. 2 large eggs, room temperature
8. 2 large egg yolks, room temperature
9. 2 Tbsp. Grand Marnier
10. 3 Tbsp. flour

For the Topping:

• 2 to 3 blood oranges, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch rounds

For the Crust:
Preheat oven to 350.

In the bowl of a food processor, add the gingersnaps and process until finely ground. Add the sugar and pulse until fully incorporated. Continue pulsing and stream in the melted butter until fully incorporated.

Transfer the mixture to a 9-inch springform pan and press into the bottom and one-inch up the sides of the pan. Set the pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until fragrant and dark golden in color. Set aside to cool.


For the Filling:
In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, add the cream cheese and beat at medium speed until smooth and fluffy, about one minute. Add the sugar and salt and continue beating until incorporated, another minute or so. Add the sour cream, orange zest, and vanilla, beating just until combined. Add the eggs one at a time, beating until fully incorporated before adding the next. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and Grand Marnier until well incorporated. (Don’t be tempted to mix this ahead of time or skip this step and add the alcohol directly to the batter!) Add this mixture to the batter and beat just until combined. Sprinkle in the flour and beat until combined. Scrape the sides of the bowl and beat again just until the mixture is fully combined and smooth, barely a minute.

Pour the batter into the cooled crust and bake for 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 300 and continue baking for another 30 to 35 minutes, or until the filling is slightly puffed and the edges are set but the center is still wobbly. Turn the oven off and allow the cake to rest for an additional hour in the oven without opening the door. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature. Cover with a tea towel or paper towel and chill overnight.


For the Topping:
When ready to serve, place the orange slices in a single layer on a baking sheet and sprinkle generously with the sugar. Using a kitchen torch, brúlée the tops of the oranges. Let cool for a few minutes.

Run a thin knife around the edge of the springform pan and release the sides. Carefully transfer the cheesecake from the base of the pan to a serving plate. Arrange some of the brúléed orange slices over the chilled cheesecake and serve with any extra slices.

by Karin Glendenning

The weatherman’s early prediction for this winter calls for much of the same we’ve experienced in winters past: a few snow showers, some rain and sunshine. Now that was a difficult prediction, right? One thing for certain though, temperatures have dipped enough that we yearn for a good roaring fire and an easy filling meal.

It’s the kind of weather that’s perfect for chicken soup, and hardly a week passes by this time of year without a pot of broth simmering on the back of my stove, filling the house with its warming, appetite-stirring fragrance. That doesn’t mean that our diet has been monotonous. Far from it, in fact. No two pots of soup are ever the same.

One of the best things about a good homemade broth - and I always have a bag or two in the freezer from a chicken I’ve cooked - is that it welcomes all kinds of additions. Sometimes the broth alone is allowed to star; other times, it slips into the background. It can be meaty with lots of chicken or thick with vegetables. It’s a lovely host for all kinds of pasta, from slim little egg noodles, to small soup shapes such as ditalini, orzo and stellini - those fun little star-shaped pastas. Or broth can take on a more hefty texture with stuffed dumplings like anolini, tortellini or wontons.

Earlier this winter, while I was stuck at home with my first case of COVID-19, the broth I’d taken from the freezer and thawed was just right for a nice, thick minestrone-style vegetable soup. It’s a soup I’ve made often and change each time, and on this occasion, I added some herbs I had in my kitchen window.

I always add several slices of gingerroot to the pot when I’m making chicken broth. If you’re not using a homemade broth, or don’t happen to use ginger as a rule, try grating a little fresh gingerroot into this soup for a nice sunny lift. Clove is a spice that’s often neglected after the holiday season and is another nice addition to a chicken-broth-based soup.

Feel free to add other vegetables as you have them and your mood dictates. A little parsnip, a cup of diced or shredded cabbage, a cup of diced zucchini, and a cup of cooked cannellini or other white beans would all be nice additions. If you just can’t imagine vegetable soup without tomatoes, add a can of tomatoes.
Keep in mind that every addition increases the yield, but that’s all good, because these kinds of soups are even better the second day.


Minestrone-Style Chicken Vegetable Soup

• 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
• 1 cup diced onion
• 1 cup diced carrot (about 1 large)
• 1 cup diced celery (about 2 large ribs)
• 1 cup frozen peas, thawed
• 1 cup green beans, cut about the same size as the diced vegetables
• 1 cup peeled and diced potato
• 2 scallions or small green onions, sliced (white and green parts separated)
• 4 cups chicken broth
• Salt
• 1 cup ditalini or other small soup pasta, cooked to al dente stage
• 1-1 1/2 cups diced cooked chicken
• 1/2 baguette or other crusty bread, thickly sliced

Put the butter in a heavy-bottomed 3- to 4-quart pot over medium-low heat. Add the onion and sauté until it’s translucent and beginning to soften, about four minutes. One at a time, add the carrot, celery, peas and green beans, sautéing until each addition is bright and just beginning to soften.

Add the potatoes and white parts of the scallions and sauté until they’re hot. Add the broth, raise the heat to medium-high and bring it to a boil, then adjust the heat to a gentle simmer and cook until the vegetables are all tender, 15-20 minutes. Taste and adjust the salt, as needed.

Stir the chicken and green parts of the scallions into the soup. If it seems too thick, thin it with broth or water, as needed. Let it come back to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the chicken is heated through, two to three minutes longer. Stir in the pasta, let it warm through for a minute, then taste and adjust the salt as needed. Serve at once with sliced baguette. Makes two or three servings as a main course.

by Anne Braly