North Carolina’s Brunswick Islands span 45 miles along the southern coast of the Tarheel State’s Brunswick County, and each of its five barrier islands and six beaches has its own personality, offering a different set of adventures and discoveries. From family-friendly Holden Beach to the charming, laid-back village of Calabash where seafood is served by the platterful in true Calabash style, visitors can pick an island to fit whatever kind of vacation suits their fancy.
​
But there are several things that each island and small town have in common: Great food; charming hotels with no high rises in sight; and people who will go out of their way to greet you and welcome you to their little piece of paradise.

Sunset Beach and Bird Island
Bird Island and Sunset Beach, the southernmost beach along the chain of Brunswick Islands, were once two islands, but hurricanes have married the two, so as you walk the shoreline, it’s difficult to determine the division that once separated them. However, Gary and Teresa Massey, who operate Sunset Beach Pier, are happy to answer any questions you may have. The 900-foot pier, offering fishing licenses and rods and a snack bar, is a good starting point for your Sunset Beach experience. 

It’ll cost you $1 to get on the pier, but once there, you can fish at no charge and also learn about the history of the area dating back to the 1600s on detailed signs posted along the pier’s railing. It makes for a fascinating learning experience.

The beach is wide and welcoming, but there’s something that draws people to the beach other than the surf and sand … something the state of North Carolina treasures: the Kindred Spirit Mailbox.

Mailbox In The Sand
The area around Sunset Beach Pier is abuzz with activity, but walk a few hundred feet from sunbathers and surfers, and you’ll find yourself largely alone, taking in the sights and sounds of nature around you. Keep walking and you’ll eventually come upon a lone mailbox planted in the sand at the top of a sand dune.

The Kindred Spirit Mailbox, located on Bird Island, is a repository for your thoughts and hopes for mankind, your stories of love, life and loss - whatever’s on your mind. When the mailbox is full, volunteer keepers of the mailbox collect the notebooks, loose letters, photos - whatever’s left inside - and donate them to be archived in the library at University of North Carolina Wilmington.

Nicholas Sparks wrote a book, “Every Breath,” about it, and when a hurricane or other weather event threatens the mailbox, the state of North Carolina sends someone out to remove it to a safe place.

To get there, rent a bike from Julie’s Rentals or walk the two miles from the pier. Climb the dune, open the box and you’ll find notebooks and pens inside to write down whatever story you wish to tell. There are benches where you can sit and reflect, overlooking the sea in front of you and the protected North Carolina Reserve and National Estuarine Research Reserve at your back. It’s been a tradition in Brunswick County for more than 35 years.

Coastal Varietals
Located just 15 minutes inland from Sunset Beach in Ocean Isle Beach, Silver Coast Winery is a welcome addition to the area for wine lovers. And if you’re wondering how vintner Maryann Azzato can grow European-style grapes in a coastal area, here’s the answer: She doesn’t. The grapes are grown in the cooler mountainous areas of North Carolina and Georgia and imported to her winery where they are crushed, made into wines aged in stainless steel tanks or oak barrels and bottled onsite.
“I originally wanted to start a wine club because good wines were hard to find in this area at that time. Who knew Brunswick County would become one of the fastest-growing counties in the country?” she asks. “So I did my due diligence and found out that wines from other states and countries couldn’t be imported into North Carolina.”

One thing led to another, she adds, so she purchased a former barbecue restaurant in the Ocean Isle Beach community and started making her own. Since then, her wines, such as her Touriga wine, a Portugese red using grapes from Dahlonega, Ga., have won numerous national and international awards.

“I’ve come a long way from making wines in my basement with my dad,” she says.

Silver Coast Winery (silvercoastwinery.com) makes about a dozen dry to semi-sweet wines with a new varietal offered each year.

After a few tastes of wine, you may need something on your stomach. The shrimp burger at Sharky’s, along with amazing fries, is a top choice for al fresco dining along the canal in Ocean Isle. If you happen to leave a few fries on your plate, the seagulls will thank you for that. Other suggestions for dining in Ocean Isle are Jink’s Creek Waterfront Grill (try the Grouper Francaise with Shrimp) or Ocean Isle Fish Company and have a drink in its tiki bar overlooking Ocean Isle Beach.

A Delicious Bash in Calabash
Calabash isn’t just the name of a town, it’s a way of eating that started in this small North Caroline hamlet. Simply put, Calabash-style seafood translates to good eating - and plenty of it. Rather than heavy breading, Calabash seafood is locally harvested fish, oysters, shrimp, clams - whatever fruits de mer the sea decides to share on any given day - lightly battered and fried to a golden brown and always - always - served with hushpuppies.

Captain Robert Taylor of Calabash Fishing Fleet (calabashfishingfleet.com) owns several boats that ply the waters of Calabash River and the Atlantic Ocean in search of seafood to bring back to his riverside Waterfront Seafood Shack Market and Eatery.

Standing on the dock beside his 65-foot “Navigator,” an ocean-going vessel that can be chartered for deep-sea fishing and dolphin cruises, Taylor tells a history of Calabash seafood.

“Years ago, all the little restaurants around here had small back porches for the folks coming in with fish they’d caught, and they would cook it for them,” he says. “Back then, cooks marinated the seafood in Carnation milk before it was fried. And they fried it in lard. Most restaurants don’t do that anymore, though,” Taylor said.

His secret to some of the best seafood in Calabash? He adds a little Old Bay seasoning to the flour. And for his hushpuppies, he adds a little onion to make them savory rather than the sweeter hushpuppies served at many other Calabash restaurants.

You’ll find Capt. Robert around the docks in an area with several restaurants, such as Captain Nance’s Seafood, the Dockside Seafood House Restaurant and the Oyster Rock Waterfront Restaurants. Unfortunately, Ella’s, one of the oldest restaurants in Calabash and a town favorite, burned down the week I was there.

A Town Full of History
Southport is a town steeped in history. Just take a self-guided walking tour and you’ll discover why. The neighborhoods surrounding the historic downtown area have lovely Victorian homes with magnificent, welcoming front porches shaded by ancient live oaks, many with historic markers from the mid-1800s, designating their place in Southport’s past. Or walk through Smithport Burial Grounds, and if you’re one of those who can spend an afternoon walking through old cemeteries, this one will enrapture you with graves dating back to 1804, their markers roughened and weathered through centuries of guarding the final restating places of ship captains, veterans of wars, their wives and children.

Hollywood discovered Southport years ago and found it to be the perfect setting for movies such as “Safe Haven,” based on Nicholas Sparks’ book of the same name and filmed in sites all around town. There’s a walking tour for that, too.

You’ll work up an appetite with all that walking, so take a break and walk to the end of Yacht Basin Drive where you’ll find several restaurants, such as Fishy Fishy Café, Provision Company and The Frying Pan.

Finish your day at the North Carolina Maritime Museum at Southport, a small museum that tells the story of the town dating back to the time when the Cape Fear Indians were its primary residents.

Oak Island
Beach life in Oak Island and its Caswell Beach centers around its 880-foot pier, the place where you’ll find two popular restaurants - Ruby’s Coffeehouse and Eatery which opens early for breakfast or a light lunch, and Coco Cobana, open for lunch and dinner with amazing views, good cocktails and delicious fresh fish tacos.

The island isn’t as busy as some others, but it’s a good place to kick back and enjoy a beach vacation with no chain eateries and, like all Brunswick Island beaches and barrier islands, no chain hotels. A good one on Oak Island is Beach House at Oak Island, a roadside hotel from the 1950s, newly refurbished and within easy walking distance of the pier. Oak Island is an oasis of natural beauty with beautiful shells on the beach and good fishing, too. It’s a beach vacation like baby boomers may have experienced long ago - a hidden gem among the Brunswick Islands.

Family Fun
Families planning a trip to the Brunswick Islands should first check out the scene at Holden Beach. Named one of the top beaches for families in the country by National Geographic Traveler, Holden offers something for every beach lover: Miles of wide, white sandy beaches that, at low tide, offer room for everyone; golf courses; great shopping; and amazing seafood in restaurants like Mermaid’s Island Grill, where the clam chowder and burgers are said to be the best on the beach.

Watching your budget? Bird watching and shelling are great on Holden Beach, especially on the underdeveloped eastern end of the beach. And at Bridgeview Park, the kids can play on the playground and dance beneath waterworks on the splash pad. The park also offers picnic tables, bocce ball and a pier with docks for temporary docking. Or relax, wet a line and do some surf fishing or cast your line from high up on the Holden Beach Pier.

Charters for deep-sea fishing are available at several outfitters, such as Catch 22 Charters or Ollie Raja Charters. Kayak and bike rentals and any other beach gear you may need can be found at Mr. Beach Rentals at Holden Beach Marina.

For more information on the Brunswick Islands and everything it offers, from family fun to quiet reflection, visit ncbrunswick.com.

by Anne Braly

Tallahassee may be best known as home to the Seminoles of Florida State University or the capital of the Sunshine State, but what you may not know is it’s one of the top places in the state for adventure-seekers. A trip to “Tally,” as the locals know it, offers the ideal solution: fun in the outdoors, wonderful hotels, such as the fun Hotel Indigo (ihg.com) in the heart of FSU country; and dining at restaurants, both casual for a sandwich or a chef-driven steakhouse. 
 
Go for a Ride 
Mountain biking in Florida? Don’t laugh. You don’t need massive mountains to go mountain biking. With more than 700 miles of trails, Tallahassee is better known among the outdoor community as Trailahassee. And one of the top ones for biking is the Magnolia Trail, a 2.5-mile loop that skirts Apalachicola National Forest at Tom Brown Park. 

Tallahassee has trails that test your skills - the kind where boulders get in the way, trees dart out from nowhere and narrowing trails that make passage difficult, at best. The Magnolia Trail, for example, has twists and turns with moderate inclines that present a challenging yet doable ride for those with basic bicycle skills. Florida’s a big state, but not everything’s wide open. And North Florida is certainly not flat. 

St. Marks Historic Trail is a good option for those who want a more-leisurely ride. It runs 21 miles along an old railroad line from just south of Florida State University all the way to the Gulf of Mexico. The trail is paved and mostly flat, making it more easily navigated by less-skilled bikers. 

Bring your own bike or arrange for a rental from The Great Bicycle Shop (www.gbs.bike).  

​Zipping Through the Canopy
Tallahassee Museum (www.tallahasseemuseum.org) is a celebration of endurance, nature and history. 

Test your endurance on the ropes course and zip line that take you through the canopy above the museum’s wetlands. Tallahassee Tree to Tree features obstacles such as bridges, swinging logs, tight ropes high in the air … think of those men in tights at the circus. Get the picture? The dozens of challenges are met with zip lines in between. The course takes about an hour to complete. Wear sturdy shoes and get ready for an experience that, when you slide down that final zip line, leaves you with a sense of relief and accomplishment. And you may be asking yourself, “Wow, did I really do that?”

The museum is a nature center with 52 acres of native flora and fauna that can be seen along nature trails, in the butterfly garden and from a raised boardwalk that takes you around large natural enclosures where deer, turkey, bobcats and other animals native to the area roam.

History is brought to life with 14 historic buildings that tell the story of life as it once was around North Florida, including the Bellevue Plantation House, a Tallahassee cotton plantation that was once home to George Washington’s great grandniece. 


Paddling the Waterways
While Tallahassee isn’t on the coast, it offers a wealth of watery possibilities, from paddle boarding to kayaking the rivers that run through it. The Wacissa River has an easy current that requires some paddling, but no difficult moves. It’s the perfect experience for beginner paddlers, but is also good for those with more experience. The sights and sounds of nature are all around you. Alligators, jumping fish, maybe a snake slithering onto a bank, herons, bald eagles. The Wacissa is a scenic wonder - wide and open. But venture off the main channel where the river branches off. I was fully expecting to see Tarzan swinging through the ancient trees chasing the creature from the black lagoon. It’s an eerie feeling, but you’ll want to continue paddling because in several places, there are some great swimming holes. Big Blue Spring is one and has a rope swing for those of you brave enough to jump into the seemingly bottomless hole.

Harry Smith Outdoors (hsmithoutdoors.com) is one of a several outfitters who will arrange a kayaking experience for you. They’ll bring your kayak to the river and take it back when you’re done. 


Where to Eat
After a day in the outdoors, hunger hits, and Tallahassee has the answer. This is a college town, after all, so visit the area around FSU if you’re looking for good bars and casual dining choices. Madison Social (www.madisonsocial.com) is one that has a good bar scene and the kind of food you’d expect - burgers, sandwiches, salads. And if you’re a fan of the Seminoles, the view isn’t bad, either. Right out the door is Doak Campbell Stadium.

Another suggestion is Table 23 (www.table23tally), a favorite place for locals, so you know it’s doing the right thing. The fare is Southern with a twist - pecan-crusted okra, pimento cheese with a side of guacamole or pork chops brined in sweet tea. Get the picture?

Then, there’s Il Lusso (www.illussotlh.com). Make reservations for this place, then get ready for an unforgettable evening. From the impeccable service to the presentation to the wine list, I can’t say enough about an evening spent here. Plates are made for sharing, so don’t be shy. Il Lusso is a steakhouse; an Italian eatery; an experience in dining. It’s the kind of place you’ll want to take your time and savor every bite, every sip.
​
by Anne Braly

Before meeting his tragic end at the young age of 29, Hank Williams lived a life of poverty followed by glamour before plummeting into the depths of drug addiction and alcoholism.

Regardless of the lifestyle he led, he set the stage for modern country music, singing brutally honest songs about his life and the language of the common man.

Fans of Williams and music historians can now follow a path through Alabama to witness Williams’ life from his childhood to stardom along Alabama’s Hank Williams Trail. The trail takes riders on a road trip between Georgiana and Fort Payne, creating a journey lovers of country music should make at least once in their lifetime. It tells a story of one of Alabama’s most famous sons, from his beginnings as the child of a railroad engineer who was mostly absent from his son’s life to the glamour of stardom and Williams’ tragic demise.

Over the span of his life, Williams recorded more than 165 songs. Though he could not read a note of music, he was a wordsmith when it came to writing hits that have become part of the American songbook.
​
The trail is a 250-mile trip through history that includes a visit to Williams’ boyhood home and ends at a barbershop where he made one of his last stops before dying in his car in West Virginia on his way to perform at a concert in Ohio. “The Alabama Tourism Department has done an incredible job with the Hank Williams Trail, and it’s a great way to experience some of my dad’s life story,” says his daughter, Jett Williams.

Here are some trail highlights:

Georgiana
Williams lived here from 1931 to 1934. It was in this house at 127 Rose Street that he played his first guitar, having bought it by selling peanuts and shining shoes at the town depot.
This site includes thousands of newspaper clippings, photos of family and friends, record albums and 45s, royalty receipts, clothes, one of Williams’ early guitars, the old wooden bench he stood on to sing at Mount Olive Baptist Church in nearby Greenville, Ala., - there are too many items to list, and it will take a couple of hours to take in the scope of the collection at the Hank Williams Boyhood Home & Museum.
Among the more unusual items in the small house is a stage light used in the Municipal Auditorium for the show “Louisiana Hayride.” The Hank Williams Festival is on the grounds the first Saturday each June. Online: www.hankmuseum.com.

Montgomery
Montgomery is ground zero for Hank Williams. He called it home from 1937 to 1948 and moved back in 1952. He lived there at the time of his death.

Hank Williams Museum
This museum is the tell-all of Williams’ life - both public and private. The collection includes thousands of pieces of not only his, but also of his wife’s, Audrey’s, past - furniture from their house in Nashville and suits, including several handmade Nudie suits. There are guitars, bills and other receipts, and artwork. The collection is massive, but its crowning jewel is the baby blue 1953 Cadillac in which Williams died. It’s on loan from his son, Hank Williams Jr.

Take your time touring the museum, when you’re done, browse the gift shop - ticket and shop sales and private donations fund the museum. Online: hankwilliamsmuseum.net.

Chris’ Hot Dogs
This shotgun-style eatery is the oldest restaurant in the city and was Williams’ favorite place to eat - and drink.

“He’d order two hot dogs all the way - mustard, sauerkraut, onions and Chris’ famous chili sauce - and a Budweiser and a shot of Jack,” a server said when asked about Hank Williams’ favorite dog. Williams’ seat isn’t marked, but it was one of 12 stools along the counter. There are also booths and tables, so it’s not hard to find a seat and eat where the Hillbilly Shakespeare once dined. Online: www.chrishotdogs.com.

D’Road Café
This cafe, the former location of the Elite Cafe, is worth at least a drive-by to see where Williams made his final public performance just four days before he died. The Elite opened in 1911 and was a Montgomery institution before it closed in 1990. Now reopened as the D’Road Cafe, the restaurant allows visitors to sit in the place where Williams last performed. Online: droadcafe.com.

Hank Williams Gravesite
On your way out of town, visit Oakwood Cemetery. It’s here, high atop a hill, where Hank and Audrey Williams are buried. Inscriptions at the base of Hank’s headstone remind visitors of his most well-known songs, such as “Kaw-Liga,” “I Can’t Help It” and “Jambalaya.”


Birmingham
The Redmont Hotel, 2101 Fifth Ave. N., is the place where Hank Williams spent his last night in 1952 and is also the oldest hotel in Alabama still in operation. Remodeling a few years ago reconfigured many of the guest rooms, but Williams’ room was on what is now the third floor, somewhere around what is now room 304.

Step off the elevator on the third floor and you’ll see a wooden plaque with four of Williams’ records. This is the only floor displaying any Hank Williams decor and is a silent tribute to one of the hotel’s most famous guests. Online: www.redmontbirmingham.com.


Fort Payne
On the eve of his death, Hank Williams stopped by Carter’s Barber Shop for a haircut and a shave from barber Howard Simpson. He also had a sip or two or three - maybe more - of moonshine while there. When Simpson died, he left the chair that Williams sat in to local barber Alton Beason, who opened his shop at 1719 Gault Avenue. It’s now on display in a corner of the shop, carefully roped off for all to see but not sit in

Lake Martin | Alexander City
Hank Williams’ Cabin on Lake Martin is a small, white frame affair where Williams and Fred Rose, his friend and a giant in the music publishing business, wrote blockbusters “Kaw-Liga” and “Your Cheatin’ Heart.”
The cabin is now on the property of Children’s Harbor, a camp for sick and disabled children. The two-bedroom building is available for rent. Online: childrensharbor.com.

Kowaliga Restaurant
This restaurant, now serving a menu of cheeseburgers and catfish, sits at the water’s edge of Lake Martin. Inside, a carved statue of the Indian Kowaliga, whose story was the inspiration for Williams’ song “Kaw-Liga” guards the entrance. Online: kowaligarestaurant.com.

by Anne Braly

The best way to map Mesa’s Fresh Foodie Trail (visitmesa.com/fresh-foodie) is not your typical food trail featuring restaurants only. It’s about where our food comes from - a celebration of the farms that grow our food. 
​
Agritourism is a trend that doesn’t appear to be going anywhere, and along the Fresh Foodie Trail, there are 10 farms and dairies where visitors can tour and sample produce and other foods fresh from the fields. The growing season is year round in Mesa, Ariz.,  so there’s always something delicious to discover.

“The trail takes a different approach to wellness by letting people know where their food comes from instead of going to a spa or other type of wellness vacation,” says Zoey Shircel, associate manager of media relations for Visit Mesa. And, she adds, March through May are the best times to visit. It’s the time of year when the temperatures are pleasant enough to enjoy being outside and visiting the farms and the adventures that await.

You won’t find an overwhelming number of restaurant chains in the area. It’s all about farm-to-table freshness. Chefs take full advantage of their place on Earth, visiting farms, alongside a growing number of locals and tourists, to select the freshest ingredients to take back to their kitchens, creating mouthwatering dishes that wow diners. And visitors can pick vegetables from the fields or from the numerous farmers markets found along the path.

Eat Fresh
Take a tour at Queen Creek Olive Mill and learn about the process of making extra-virgin olive oil from tree to table, then enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner at a table in the olive grove. Take some home, too. The gift shop is filled with dozens of flavors, from traditional tastes to bacon, Meyer lemon, roasted garlic and other flavored oils. Vinegars, too. Go to queencreekolivemill.com.

Farm-to-table, field-to-fork, whatever name you want to give it, the level of dining you’ll find at Schnepf Farms (schnepffarms.com) has gone beyond a trend to become an expected experience when eating at a chef-driven restaurant. Few, though, allow guests to meet the chef in the field, pick their own produce, learn new recipes by using those foods, and enjoy a meal later in the day as part of its Foraging With the Farmer, an experience that’s offered during the farm’s non-festival months of January, February, April and May. The 300-acre farm is the site of festivals 100 days out of the year, such as autumn’s Pumpkin and Chili Party Festival or its Peach Festival held in early spring.

Schnepf’s is a working farm, but also features the Cozy Peach glampground filled with fully restored vintage Airstreams, something of which many take advantage when attending festivals or cooking classes, or simply wanting a different type of overnight experience when traveling the Mesa Foodie Trail.

A Man With a Vision
Joe Johnston had a vision that, in 2000, became reality when his family farm - the land he grew up on - morphed into a marriage of agriculture and utopia. The result? Agritopia (agritopiafarm.com), a planned community that, in the midst of urban sprawl, maintains its ties to the land as a commercial certified-organic farm with a community garden, while making space for the modern age with homes, a retirement center, its own school system and a world-class dog park. Restaurants in Agritopia take full advantage of the fields outside their doors and bring in fresh produce and other foods from the area at places such as Barnone, a craftsman’s community that includes foods ranging from handcrafted cocktails to pizza and ice cream; Garage East, a winery where 99 percent of the wines are from Arizona; a coffee shop; and more delights. 

Today, Agritopia is a prime example of what can happen when citizens work together, returning to our roots without sacrificing modern needs.

Off the Farm
Bakeries, such as Proof Bread, and farms, such as Agritopia, sell their produce to area restaurants, so if you can’t make a trip to the farm, you’ll find them represented on menus far and wide throughout Maricopa County. Old Ellsworth Brewing Company (oldellsworthbrewing.com) has a Brewben that will knock your socks off and, like many of its sandwiches, uses local breads. What’s Crackin’ Egg Cafe (whatscrackincafe.com) uses locally sourced ingredients for many of its brunch dishes. The popular bruschetta boards at Postino (postinowinecafe) are made with local breads spread with ingenious toppings. And grocery store-turned-restaurant, Liberty Market (libertymarket.com) is known for its appreciation of local ingredients, including a savory vegan bowl with sweet potatoes, fresh herbs, greens and avocado blended with Forbidden rice.

What’s all the Buzz About?
The rich soil and excellent growing climate make for a wealth of produce coming from the gardens along the Fresh Foodie Trail. But all its deliciousness would not be possible without a healthy honeybee population, and Mesa’s Alveole, a division of Urban Beekeeping Company, an international corporation, is a vital partner in making all the sweet goodness happen.

“We need them to pollinate our citrus and vegetable plants,” says Mark Freeman, owner of Freeman Farms, a farm with a farmer’s market that sells produce from its area fields, as well as welcoming other farmers to sell their produce. 

Alveole has 24 hives installed around the Mesa area, from area farms to rooftops in urban areas.

“Helping the environment impacts us all,” says beekeeper Amanda Harder. “It’s all about sustainability, and over time, we can grow the honeybee population.”

A Vertical Climb
You’ll need to look up to see the gardens at True Garden, where plants grow aeroponically and vertically on tall cylindrical towers. Vegetables and herbs are planted in small holes along the tower and fed by water infused with nutrients. It’s a soilless growing system that local compounding pharmacist Troy Albright introduced to help reduce the area’s agricultural water consumption while providing a better way to eat for those in his community. 

It’s the first of its kind in the Southwest and is catching on quickly as chefs come “shopping” for fresh greens, and gardeners come to buy seedlings to transplant into their own gardens or aeroponic systems.

Tours, which include tastings of the more than 100 different healthy plants growing in a greenhouse filled with towers of greens, are offered for 10 or more. Stop in for a tour or to learn more about how to set up a system in your own home. Classes are offered monthly. Visit truegarden.com for more information.

Take a Hike
After eating your fill at farms and eateries along the Fresh Foodie Trail, Maricopa County has an extensive choice of trails to get some exercise. Usery Mountain Regional Park (maricopacountyparks.net) is a 3,600-acre park for both equestrians and hikers, with trails that snake through the upper Sonoran Desert.

The Vista Trail is one of its easiest. It’s a short hike, taking about an hour’s walk up a small mountain and back down again. At its peak is a stunning view of the Superstition Mountains, where it’s said a German miner, Jacob Waltz, hit the jackpot as he mined for gold. His treasure is hidden somewhere on the mountain, and countless hunters have looked for it - and continue to do so - to no avail. Along the Vista Trail, you’ll see numerous varieties of cacti and interesting rock formations. Wear sturdy shoes and be forewarned: Don’t touch the jumping cactus.

Go for the Gold
It’s believed that a cache of gold worth millions lies beneath the Goldfield Mountains. Only there’s no way of getting to it. Goldfield Mine was a successful venture until, in November 1897, the mine flooded following the failure of a local dam. Today, Goldfield has reopened as a major tourist attraction, Goldfield Ghost Town (goldfieldghosttown.com). It’s an amusement park that includes a tour of the abandoned mine, shops, a saloon, rides and more, all with a Western theme. There’s a two-seater zipline, too, that takes riders high above the town to get a birds-eye view of the old town of Goldfield as well as the surrounding desert and mountains. Or, stop by the saloon, and you’ll feel as if you’re back in the Wild West.

by Anne Braly
Annebraly.com

Antigua is a country of contrasts. There are mountains - some hundreds of feet high - and rugged cliffs that give way to pristine beaches. On the western side of the island, the turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea sparkle like diamonds beneath a bluebird sky. On its eastern side, the Caribbean meets the choppy indigo-blue waters of the Atlantic Ocean.
​
One thing, though, ties the country together - the friendliness and overwhelming hospitality of its people. And that’s what you’ll find at Galley Bay Resort and Spa (galleybayresort.com) as soon as you step out of your taxi and are greeted with a welcoming smile and a rum drink or celebratory glass of bubbly.

Galley Bay Resort opened in the 1990s with just one restaurant, Sea Grape, and a handful of guest rooms. Since then, it’s grown into a world-class luxury resort spread over 64 acres with 94 guest suites, three oceanfront restaurants, four bars and a nice mix of activities. This expansion, though, has evolved without deviating from the resort’s mission: to offer a private, adults-only escape that combines romance with top-notch service, ambiance and amenities.

The Rooms at Galley Bay
Every room at Galley Bay offers views of the water, whether it is of the ocean or the lagoon. It all depends on what you’re looking for in a vacation.

Paved pathways snake through lush landscape throughout the property, making guests feel as if they’re walking through a Gauguin masterpiece, thus the name of a string of cottages, the Gauguin Suites, that are ultra-private and feature their own plunge pools. The suites are perfect for couples needing to spend some time alone - honeymooners or those needing to reconnect with some romance.

Beachfront suites are housed in a number of multi-story units with a number of superior deluxe suites that open directly onto the beach with living areas, private balconies, wet bar, two-person tubs and large showers. Suites on upper levels offer the same amenities and stunning ocean views, but without direct beach access since they are on the second floor.

All rooms have luxury linens and premium toiletries. The resort offers daily maid service, and the mini bar is restocked daily.

Dining Choices at Galley Bay
Think of this all-inclusive as a cruise ship on land. There’s the main open-air dining room, Sea Grape Restaurant and Bar, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner with amazing views of the sea. The dinner menu rotates every two weeks, so unless your stay is more than 14 days, you won’t be seeing the same menu twice. Galley Bay also boasts a small coffee shop with pastries for breakfast and a lunch menu with several sandwiches and ice cream. Barefoot Grill is another lunch option, with burgers and sandwiches made to order. These three restaurants, plus drinks in the four bars - Tee Pee Bar, Rum Shack, Gauguin Bar and Sea Grape Bar - are included in the price of your stay.

There are two specialty restaurants, though, that up the ante on dining at Galley Bay - Ismay’s and Gauguin, both offering dining directly on the beach. Gauguin is perhaps the most-romantic restaurant on the island, with tables situated in their own small open tiki huts on the beach. Ismay’s offers more traditional dining in a large timber-framed restaurant near Shell Beach. Both feature steaks and seafood, such as a recent menu with fresh swordfish served with a delicate lobster sauce at Gauguin.

Reservations are necessary at each specialty restaurant and may be made through guest services. Ismay’s is an additional $45 per person; dinner at Gauguin is included in your stay.

All eateries offer contemporary cuisines featuring farm- and ocean-to-table fare overseen by executive Chef Jeremiah Nathaniel, a native of Antigua who knew from a young age that he wanted to pursue a career in the culinary arts.

“My mother was a cook at Mill Reef Club and Half Moon Bay in Freetown. I’d see all the chefs working at those places and admired them,” he recalls as he talks about fungee and pepperpot, two native dishes that he makes at home. Fungee, though, a gelatinous cornmeal dish with minced okra, may appear on from time to time on menus at Galley Bay.

A large percentage of vegetables and fruits are grown in the resort’s 13-acre garden, an expanse of land that will soon feature a hydroponic garden.

Activities Around Galley Bay
Guests with limitless energy can choose from complimentary activities such as billiards, tennis, sailing, snorkeling, yoga, sea kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding.

Check out the calendar located near guests services to see what activities are on tap for the week. Maybe a garden tour of the all the colorful flowers and other greenery led by grounds manager John Bowen? Bowen is a Jamaican transplant whose love of the land comes alive when talking about his gardens. Or take a walk through his vegetable garden to see what may appear on your dinner plate. Each Wednesday, there’s a manager’s cocktail party at the Rum Shack.

There’s a well-stocked fitness center to work off some of the delicious calories you’ll consume during your stay, enjoy a massage or other body indulgence at Indulge Spa, or just sit back and relax on the beach beneath the palms with a cold pina colada, a book in your hand and your toes in the sand.

Visit guest services to arrange for off-property tours of the island by car or catamaran, or take a walk into Five Islands Village or over to Hawksbill Bay with its palm-fringed beaches. You can also get your game on at Antigua’s newest casino, Casino Royale, sporting table games and more than 80 slot machines. It’s a quick taxi ride from Galley Bay.

Getting There
During high season, November through April, several carriers offer nonstop flights into St. John’s, Antigua, from Atlanta, New York and other major hubs. Year-round, American Airlines services V.C. Bird International Airport with daily direct service out of Miami.

Once landed, hail a taxi or, for more personalized service, contact Eagle Discovery and Tours (eaglediscoverytours.com) and a representative will be waiting for you as you exit customs.

by Anne Braly

As far as destinations go, there’s no better place to visit in March than the mountains with the greens of their majestic pines standing out better than any other time of year, and the cliffs may still sport ice-covered faces shimmering like the White Cliffs of Dover.

The mountains in winter are a gift for the senses. They give us a reset, just the thing to strengthen your mindset. And in Cashiers, one doesn’t have to look far to find just the things to relieve the pressures and busyness of life at home, whether it’s a massage with views of the surrounding Blue Ridge Mountains; wetting a line in one of many streams; hearing the thunder of Whitewater Falls in Nantahala National Forest; or hiking to the top of Whiteside Mountain to take in the views and the fresh mountain air.

Cashiers has been a vacation destination and getaway for well over a century, due in large part to its cool summer temperatures. Given its higher elevation along the plateau at more than 3,400 feet above sea level, temperatures are often 10 to 20 degrees cooler than many of the major cities throughout the southeast.

There’s really no bad time to visit the Cashiers area, says Nick Breedlove, executive director of Jackson County Tourism Development Authority.

The mild weather of spring brings beautiful daffodil blooms lining the town’s corridor and heavy thickets of blooming rhododendron along the highways. Fall ushers in the change of colors dotting the mountainsides. And in winter, the temperatures are often mild enough to hit the links on one of 20-plus courses in the Cashiers area. Plus, during the winter, there are fewer visitors, so you may find yourself alone in the great big wilderness. How’s that for a shift in your mindset?

Wet a Line
The mountain water is much colder and not so good for swimming, but that chilly water makes March fly fishing better than other times of year. When the water’s cold, the oxygen level increases and, in turn, the fish are more active. So, the equation is a no-brainer: Winter plus cold water plus active fish equals great fishing.

The Flyfishing Trail is a good one to follow for the best places to wet a line. The 15 stops along the trail are scenic and swimming with trout - rainbow, brown, brook. Some creeks and rivers are stocked by local hatcheries, such as the Tuckasegee and Scott Creek; others are wild and wonderful.

Raven Fork starts along the Blue Ridge Parkway (be sure to check in advance to make sure the Parkway is open) and goes north for more than two miles, a stretch known as Cherokee Trophy Water where fish as long as 20 to 30 inches are common. Permits are required.

Panthertown Creek flows for about three miles through Panthertown Valley, an area known as the “Yosemite of the East” because of its bowl shape and rocky bluffs. This is one of the most scenic areas in the county, which is also great for hiking, with trails along old logging roads and spectacular views. The valley is also home to numerous waterfalls, including popular Schoolhouse Falls and Frolictown Falls.

Wild rainbow and brown trout swim the waters of Scotsman and Fowler creeks, each about three miles long. Both creeks flow into the Chattooga River, the same river where the movie “Deliverance” was filmed.

The Tuckasegee has several good stretches of trout-laden waters, but it’s along the four-miles that run between the bridge on Highway 107 and Dillsboro Park that fishermen can claim title to the Tuckasegee Slam - catching all three species of trout in one spot.

In 2016, Jackson County was designated by state and local officials as North Carolina’s Premier Fishing Destination. For a complete list of guide services, maps and more, visit FlyFishingTrail.com or NCTroutCapital.com.

Pamper Yourself
After a full day of skiing, fishing and hiking - or all of the above - you’ve had the time for that mind reset. Now it’s time to listen to your body talk.  Those muscles are screaming for some TLC, and there are several spas in the Cashiers area that will give them the love they demand or give your skin a break from the harshness of the winter weather with a relaxing facial.

Spend an hour or two at Canyon Spa in the shadow of Cow Mountain in Lonesome Valley, and you’ll walk out a new person. The spa is housed in a caretaker’s cottage from the early 1900s and features the original fireplace where guests can cozy up to a warm fire while waiting for a facial, massage or other therapies that pamper your body with all-natural products, many using herbs grown in the nearby garden.

Located within the heart of Cashiers, the Cashiers Spa helps visitors relax their body, mind, and spirit with professional massage therapists. Services range from Swedish massage to Thai herbal poultice. Have your massage onsite, or give the spa a call and they’ll send a massage therapist to your place of stay. Learn more at cashiersspa.com.

Tarah’s Beauty Bar is a quaint and relaxing mountain day spa that will give your skin the wellness treatment it deserves. Signature treatments include organic Hungarian facials; vitamin and antioxidant-rich chemical peels; and body/facial waxings. Go to tbbspa.co.

Go For a Walk
Hiking Whiteside Mountain, exploring Panthertown Valley, and visiting waterfalls, it’s nice to have all of the great outdoor assets all to yourself, and in March, you possibly can. And with more than 185 named summits in Jackson County alone, there are plenty of good trails to follow.

“We call it our ‘secret season’ - a time when crowds calm down, and you have the trails all to yourself and the air is crisp, clean, and cool,” Breedlove says.

Panthertown Valley is a vast trail system of 30-plus miles in the 10,000-acre Nantahala National Forest, so hikers are well-advised to take a map on their trip, and Whiteside Mountain is a top favorite among lovers of the outdoors. It’s a hike along the ridgeline of one of the oldest mountains in the world, formed some 360-to-490 million years ago when the oceans receded, leaving the stunning peaks we know today as the Blue Ridge Mountains.

“The views on a clear day go for miles and miles,” Breedlove says.

Even the shortest of trails, such as the 1.5-mile loop around Richland Balsam, the highest summit in the Balsam Mountains, offers spectacular gifts, such as a walk through a remnant spruce forest with its ancient, ghost-like remains.

Another easy walk is one of the best in the county. The Whiteside Mountain trail is a two-mile loop along the Eastern Continental Divide to 4,930 feet and the highest vertical drop (750 feet) in the Eastern United States. Fencing along its edge helps to prevent disaster.

For trails of a more-intense nature, plan ahead, pack your gear and set off for Yellow Mountain, a 13-mile hike with steep ascents to an old stone-and-wood fire tower. Your efforts to get there will be paid off with amazing views of the valley below and mountains beyond.

For more trails off the beaten path, visit DiscoverJacksonNC.com.

Falling Waters
While neighboring Transylvania County is known as “The Land of Waterfalls,” Jackson County boasts at least a dozen falls, among them the tallest in the state, Whitewater Falls, which is also said to be the tallest east of the Mississippi River, with an amazing plunge of more than 400 feet.

Access to the falls is made via a wide, paved path, which, at its end, offers great views of the falls, but if you are able, take the plunge down a set of steep stairs for views that will take your breath away. Signs at the top warn you to stay away from the falls and slippery rocks, though. “People have died here,” it reads.

For an even easier walk, Silver Run Falls is just four miles south of Cashiers and no more than a quarter-mile walk off Highway 107. Not quite as impressive as Whitewater Falls, it’s still an awesome cascade of 25 feet into a large pool at the bottom without the dire warnings attached. On hot days, that pool can be crowded.
On a winter’s day, you may have to share the waterfalls with another person or two, but you may have them all to yourself. Just you and Mother Nature.

All major waterfalls, such as the aforementioned, as well as Bridal Veil Falls, Cashiers Sliding Rock, Looking Glass Falls and Glen Falls, are marked with forest service signs along the road. For a complete list of all waterfalls and directions, visit mountainlovers.com/waterfalls.
​
“With the varying elevation and ruggedness of our county, some waterfalls can be more difficult than others to find,” Breedlove notes. “For that reason, sometimes we don’t list all of them in an effort to ensure we keep our visitors on the trail and not bushwhacking to a remote place where it might be best not to wander.”

Rest Your Head
At day’s end, Cashiers offers a range of overnight accommodations, from its one chain hotel, Hampton Inn, a Hilton property, to boutique hotels and short-term vacation rentals at places like Sapphire Valley  (sapphirevalleyresorts.com), a popular ski resort with several restaurants just minutes from downtown Cashiers.

High Hampton Resort (highhampton.com) is now under the guidance of the Bealle family, owners of the famed Blackberry Inn in Walland, Tenn., who head the hospitality arm at High Hampton. The resort has long been a favorite, private getaway for Southerners and continues this tradition after reopening in April 2021.

The Wells Hotel Cashiers (thewellscashiers.com) has rooms, suites and cabins situated on five acres in the heart of downtown Cashiers with easy access to the only brew pub in town, Whiteside Brewing Co.

Hotel Cashiers (hotelcashiers.com), formerly a roadside motel, has been beautifully transformed into a boutique mountain inn with a shop for wine, artisan meats and cheeses, and gifts, many locally made.
Contact Anne Braly at apbraly@gmail.com or  www.annebraly.com.

Though beer and baseball may be the first two things that come to mind, there’s so much more to the city of St. Louis. Consider its history and culture, as well as a deliciously expanding food scene, and it’s easy to see why the Gateway to the West makes for a fun family vacation or a much-needed adults-only getaway.

“When you come to St. Louis, families can enjoy an incredible array of unique kid-friendly attractions,” says Catherine Neville, vice president of communications for Explore St. Louis. But there’s something for everyone, she adds.

Sports lovers flock to see the Cardinals play at Busch Stadium and catch a Blues game at Enterprise, and this spring they’ll have even more to root for when the XFL returns to The Dome and the St. Louis City Soccer Club begins playing at the new CITYPARK stadium. The arts abound in St. Louis, as well. And from Forest Park to the Missouri Botanical Garden, St. Louis offers a multitude of greenways and gardens to connect visitors with nature.

Here’s a look at some of the experiences that await as you enter The Gateway City.


Saintly Fare
The food scene in St. Louis and its surrounding communities, such as Webster Groves and Clayton, continues to broaden the palate of locals and visitors alike.

Of course, there’s the cake that St. Louis made famous - yummy gooey butter cake, a confection you’ll find in many a bakery. Another food made famous here: the ice cream cone. No, the city cannot lay claim to ice cream, but it was first served in a cone at the St. Louis World’s Fair in 1904, and one of the most-popular ice cream parlors is Clementine’s (store.clementinescreamery.com), where ice cream comes in dozens of flavors, both boozy and teetotaler flavors. There are three locations, but it’s so well-loved, it can be shipped around the country.

For an experience that takes you into another dimension, make reservations for dinner at Cinder House (cinderhousestl.com), the primary restaurant at Four Seasons, a luxury hotel with dynamic views of the Gateway Arch and downtown St. Louis. As with most hotel restaurants, Cinder House is open for breakfast and lunch, but it’s at the dinner hour when diners can realize the breadth or talent displayed on every plate by James Beard Award-winning chef Gerard Crafts and his crew. The menu features a number of American favorites, many of which sparkle when Craft adds his magical touches from South America. Scallops come alive with sauce Huancaina; a New York strip gets a boost with a sauce of chimi-rojo bearnaise.

Looking for brunch? The Clover and the Bee in Webster Grove is a neighborhood eatery specializing in this mid-morning meal, offering a fresh take on traditional fare, such as a shaved Brussels sprouts salad with dried cherries and candied pecans or avocado toast drizzled with hot honey.

For a taste of France with a twist of the South, the Fried Chicken Cordon Bleu at Bistro La Floraison in Clayton (bistrolafloraison.com) will bring you to your knees. It’s a newly opened bistro with the charm of a Parisian café and a wine list to match. “This jewel box is a must-stop when you’re in town,” Neville says.

The Music Scene
It’s hard to think about music in St. Louis without paying tribute to Tina Turner, a Tennessee-turned-Missouri girl who made it big in St. Louis and then the world. Or Josephine Baker, entertainer, singer and World War II spy. Chuck Berry, Fontella Bass, Nelly, Scott Joplin - they all got their start in St. Louis before hitting the international stage.

The music scene in St. Louis is a celebration of sound. The Missouri History Museum (mohistory.org), a free museum located on the grounds of the World’s Fair, recently premiered Saint Louis Sound, an exhibit featuring many of the city’s famous artists. Likewise, Zack, an intimate community theater, celebrated the town’s female musicians with a one-woman show that was both educational and entertaining. It’s experiences such as these that put a stamp on the importance of St. Louis in the nation’s music history.


The Gateway Arch
It would be amiss in any story not to include the Gateway Arch (gatewayarch.com), our nation’s newest addition to the National Park System. At 91 acres along the Mississippi River, it’s the smallest of all the parks, but it packs a wallop of fun and an eye-opening education of the opening of the West.

A trip to the top of the arch in an enclosed capsule just big enough for five adults offers a birds-eye view - literally at 630 feet high - of the city and the river. At its base is a museum that traces the story of Native Americans, explorers, the first St. Louisians, and other pioneers through a series of six exhibits, most with interactive elements.

The park also includes the campus of the old federal courthouse where the enslaved Dred Scott sued the government for his freedom, a quest that was denied. It’s a walk through the civil rights era beginning in 1847.

The courthouse, currently undergoing renovations, is a prime example of 19th century architecture.  If you’re interested in learning more about the architecture of St. Louis, visit the Missouri History Museum’s current exhibit, “Coloring STL,” an interactive exhibit showcasing the architects and buildings that left their mark on the town.


For the Kids … And Big People, Too
City Museum (www.citymuseum.org) takes everything you ever thought about a stuffy old museum and throws it out the window. It’s a museum of leftovers that have been unassembled, reimagined, reinterpreted and reassembled into a giant, 10-story playground for kid and adults.

A decommissioned airplane poised high above ground is now a place for kids to play; an old school bus sits precariously on the side of the museum and makes a fun place for kids, as well. Getting down from high above can be done the conventional way - by stairs and elevator. Or, dare to take the 10-story slide down to terra firma.

It’s a chance to spend an entire day in Neverland.

On the waterfront, Big Muddy Adventures (www.2muddy.com) offers a paddling tour along the Mississippi to see St. Louis from a different perspective. The company can style most any paddling adventure you want, from canoeing and kayaking the river to a beach picnic or private island dinner.

“There’s an authenticity to experience,” says paddling guide Matt Green. “It’s the real kind of thing vacationers are looking for. Our mission is to get people to reconnect with the river.”

The Spirits of St. Louis
Just as the craft beer craze has exploded across the nation, craft spirits, too, are gaining traction. And at its helm is StilL 630 (www.still630.com), a boutique distillery. Don’t let the double burners - left over from its life as a Burger King - fool you. Distiller Dave Weglarz, a founding member of the Missouri Craft Distillers Guild, knows his business, crafting beautiful spirits from local ingredients, such as his line of bourbons made with Missouri-grown corn and aged in barrels made in Missouri.

“It’s my little American dream that I hope to turn into a big company,” Weglarz says. “We take our booze very seriously.”

StilL 630 has an open house every Friday from 5-9 p.m. and offers tours on Saturdays for groups of 10 or more.

Looking for a good house of craft beer? Just so happens, Schlafly (schlafly.com) was the first tap room of craft beer to open in St. Louis. It was back in 1991, well before the craft beer craze took off around the country, that Thomas Schlafly opened his pub in a former print shop. Now, the brewhouse offers year-round and seasonal beers brewed in-house, as well as cider and a menu of pub-style fare. Fish and chips and the Reuben are some good choices.

On the Farm
Granted, Auguste Busch may be better known for his beer, but his house at Grant’s Farm (grantsfarm.com/the-experience) is impressive on a different level. The handsome brick mansion has been home to five generations of Busches, and continues to be visited by family members, so its interior is not open to tours. But when the family is not in residence, you can walk around it and wonder at its architecture and what it would be like to live in such opulence.

Grant’s Farm is so named because it was the home to President Ulysses S. Grant. His cabin is still situated on the property, surrounded by fields stocked with native and non-native animals, leftovers from a time when Auguste Busch planned to make his land into a hunting preserve. Now, zebras, emus, many species of deer, longhorn cattle, bison and others roam over acres and acres of pastureland.

A visit to Grant’s Farm is an educational experience. Spend a day driving through this well-preserved oasis of Mother Nature, just minutes outside the city in Grantwood Village.