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Get Away to Mackinac Island

5/2/2025

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​Mackinac Island, Mich. – It’s 6 a.m. on a Friday morning as I jog along Main Street, breathing in the cool morning air of an early spring season on the island of Mackinac welcomes. But just as with any other day, the streets are eerily quiet as continue my morning workout. Lake Huron is to my left and the charming homes of this old island retreat are to my right. I don’t have to worry about running in the middle of the street. There are no cars, nor will there ever be.

In the distance, a young man with a pushcart is making his way down the street for an early delivery at a nearby shop. Then I hear the echo of horse hooves striking the pavement on an adjacent street.

Have I run through a portal and landed in a time far in the past? My imagination is suddenly checked as the sound of a foghorn echoes across the lake, and I watch as the island yawns and stretches, coming to life. Bicycles are released from their nightly moorings, and riders, eager to experience the sights around Mackinac, begin pedaling through town.

This must be what it’s like for most people visiting historic Mackinac Island for the first time. The island, on the southeastern tip of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, offers a wonderment of experiences - horseback riding, golf, kayaking, hiking and more - all within the 4-mile coastline that wraps around this island.

Dominick Miller, marketing manager for Mackinac State Historic Parks, says the island’s no-motorized-vehicles law dates to 1898 when a car spooked the horses, “upsetting a lot of carriages.”

Modern residents seem happy to trade the added charm for any inconvenience. In 2012, island resident Liz Ware, who owns the award-winning Mission Point Resort with her parents, bought a house on the island. Built in 1906, Silver Birches was near the point of no return, Ware admits, but she saw its potential and has spent the last few years putting her heart and soul into refurbishing the property. It hasn’t been easy, but it’s a statement of her commitment to keeping the island the way it’s been for generations.

“In order to repair the foundations, we could not use a cement truck. We had to get 80-pound bags of cement - hundreds of them - over to the island,” she says. Horse-drawn wagons finished the journey, and the cement bags were unloaded by hand.

There were hundreds of similar challenges, Ware says.

“Were they worth it? Without a doubt,” she says. “This is where my heart is and where I find strength, peace, beauty and overwhelming joy.”
That’s just the way it is on Mackinac.

A Look Back in Time
The first people to settle on Mackinac Island (pronounced Mackinaw) were bands of the Chippewa and Ottawa Indians, descendants of the ancient Anishinaabe people who migrated to the Great Lakes area around A.D. 1200. By the 1700s, Europeans had arrived, making the island a center of activity during the Great Lakes fur trade, leading to the building of Fort Mackinac, a British-held fort during the Revolutionary War. It was also used as a prison during the Civil War. In the late 1860s, the fort was closed, becoming the nation’s second national park. Yellowstone is the first - in the 1870s. Mackinac Island State Park now encompasses 80 percent of the island.

Today, the fort is a place where tourists come to see reenactments of daily life around the fort and hear cannon fire on the hour. The fort is also one of the highest points on the island, offering majestic views of the lake, harbor and town below.

By the late 1800s, the island took on the look it has today - a tourist destination and place for people to build their summer homes.

Where to Stay
The Grand Hotel opened in 1887 with rates from $3 to $5 per night. Rates now start at just under $300 per night for adults, but that includes three meals in the magnificent dining room. The hotel, which boasts the largest porch of any hotel in the world, commands a breathtaking view of Lake Huron and is a beautiful setting for afternoon tea. The hotel, recognized as one of Travel + Leisure’s 500 World’s Best Hotels, was a setting in the 1980 movie “Somewhere in Time” starring Christopher Reeve. So, to know Mackinac is to know the Grand Hotel. It’s one of those resorts on many people’s lists of “places to go before I die.” But there are so many more places to stay on Mackinac Island, from B&Bs to quaint inns and other resorts. What you won’t find are any chain hotels.

Mission Point Resort is the only place on the island where you can play miniature golf. It also boasts a beautiful spa, bike rentals to roam the island, bocce ball and croquet on the expansive front lawn. The hotel’s decor, with a log ceiling in the lobby that soars to a point overhead, is best described as contemporary Adirondack. It has a casual, understated elegance that calls for shorts and jeans by day and something a little nicer - but not too fancy - in Chianti, the hotel’s dining room, at night. Mission Point received a Reader’s Choice Award from Conde Nast in 2017.

Island House Hotel is within walking distance of the downtown area, which can become quite busy at the height of tourist season, July through October. The hotel has a nice front lawn with a beautiful view of the harbor and nightly marshmallow roasts with fixings for s’mores. It is Mackinac’s oldest hotel, a member of Historic Hotels of America and is listed, like many structures on the island, on the National Register of Historic Places.

Pine Cottage is a quaint B&B just a few steps off Main Street. The rooms are reminiscent of a bygone era. Breakfast is served in a dining room with linen-dressed tables. The inn is across the street from the park and a stone’s throw from the entrance to Fort Mackinac.

For more information or lodging suggestions, visit www.mackinacisland.org.

Dining With a View
By horse-drawn taxi, bicycle or on foot, there are many delicious places to get your fill on Mackinac. Stop in Doud’s Grocery, the oldest continuously running grocery store in America, and get the foods you’ll need for a picnic on the island. Don’t forget to get some fudge for dessert at one of the nearby fudge houses. There are several; many consider Ryba’s to be the best. There are lots of good spots to picnic on the island, such as the park in front of Fort Mackinac right down the street from the market. There’s only a road filled with bicyclists and horses between you and the Great Lake.

If you’d rather have a table at which to dine, there are many places from which to choose. Here are some choice suggestions:

Chianti at Mission Point. You’ll step into elegance at this large restaurant with a view of the grand front lawn and Lake Huron. Dinner is an experience here. The menu has a nice mix of steaks, veal, lamb, seafood and house-made pastas. Dine inside or on a large deck overlooking the lake. The menu is seasonal and reservations, available through Open Table, are suggested.

The Tea Room at Fort Mackinac. If you can’t make it to The Grand Hotel for one of its elegant meals, the Tea Room is the next best thing. It’s operated by The Grand Hotel and has the best view of any restaurant on the island. It’s a lunch-only establishment, and you have to buy a ticket to Fort Mackinac to get in ($17.35 adults; $10.46 children ages 5-12; under 5 are free). The tuna sandwich is a good bet.

The Pink Pony. Morning through early evening, this is a great place for casual fare, such as the Smoked Whitefish Benedict for breakfast - a local favorite; whitefish tacos for lunch; and Michigan Maple Bourbon Strip Steak for dinner. Late night, the party animals appear for cold beer, mixed drinks, live music and dancing. The Daily Meal chose Pink Pony, located inside the Chippewa Hotel, as one of America’s Top 10 restaurants for outdoor dining.

Patrick Doud’s Irish Pub Patrick Doud’s name is a familiar one in town, and now it’s attached to a new pub on the island featuring mouthwatering Reubens, ale-battered fish and chips, fresh trout from the waters of Lake Michigan, and more.

When To Go and How To Get There
While Mackinac Island is open year-round, activities are dramatically scaled back. The Great Lakes freeze, making ferry rides across Lake Huron nearly impossible from January through early April, so many businesses are closed, save a couple of hotels and restaurants. May to September is the best time to go.

There are no direct commercial flights that will get you to Mackinac, but you can get pretty close. From Chattanooga, Delta has flights to Detroit that take about 90 minutes. From there, hop on one of Delta’s puddle jumpers to Traverse City, Mich., rent a car and make the two-hour drive to the ferry. Or fly into Pellston, Mich., and take a shuttle to the ferry. It’s about a 20-minute drive.

Of the multiple ferries, Shepler’s claims to get you there the fastest, and sure enough, took us only about 15 minutes. Round-trip tickets are $36 for adults.
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by Anne Braly
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Visit This Dutch Gem: Nijmegen

9/13/2024

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Driving south from Amsterdam toward the city of Nijmegen, you’ll pass through a bucolic countryside of green pastures, cows, horses, and farmhouses. It’s a peaceful scene that contradicts the tumultuous past of the 2,000-year-old city that lies ahead, the oldest in the Netherlands.

Now a vibrant, beautiful city of roughly 170,000 souls and home to Radboud University, one of the largest in the country, several manufacturing plants, retail shops, restaurants, and modern housing, Nijmegen’s past includes invasions from the Romans, Germans, French, Vikings and others all fighting for the city’s strategic location on the Waal River, a tributary of the Rhine.

An Eclectic Blend
The city is an eclectic blend of architecture and culture, a heterogenous town that doesn’t take for granted the role its past played in making it the city it is today.

The Netherlands is a small country about the same size as Maryland. So you can spend a week driving around and see most of it, but plan on spending a night or two in Nijmegen.

As you hopscotch around, learn about its history, first settled by a West-Germanic tribe around the year 100 B.C., in this modern-day city.

A Look Back in Time
There are several museums in Nijmegen that take visitors into another world. In the late 1800s, the city created a lovely park on a quiet hilltop that, centuries ago, was the location for Kasteel Het Valkhof.
Now in ruins, the castle was built by Charlemagne in the year 777. It was partially destroyed by Vikings in 881, and restored by Holy Roman Emperor Frederick I in 1155 before being destroyed once and for all in the late 1700s by the French.

Only a shell of the former palace remains, but next to it and still standing is the small, octagonal Chapel of Saint Nicholas, circa 1030, open daily except for Mondays.

The town center in Nijmegen has buildings dating back to the 16th century, such as De Wagg, a popular restaurant where tables outside are the best seats in the house on a nice evening.

Stones from Roman buildings, unearthed during the chapel’s construction, were used in the walls and can be seen today. Just ask one of the volunteer guides to point them out.

Adjacent to Valkof Park is Museum Het Valkhof, a museum filled with archeological artifacts from the days of Roman occupation to more “modern” times, including artwork from the Old Masters onto works of art from today’s Dutch artists.

Unfortunately, the information cards next to the exhibits are in Dutch, but with your 12.50 euro fee comes a walking tour pamphlet in English.

De Bastei Museum
When construction began for a new museum for nature and culture, De Bastei, at the bottom of Valkhof Hill and on the banks of the River Waal, workers discovered ancient Roman walls, tunnels, and more artifacts.
After consulting of all those concerned with the construction of the museum, it was decided that work would continue and the traces of more than 2,000 years of Nijmegen history would be incorporated in the design.
The result is a museum that takes you underground, partially through some of the ancient tunnels, and offers an education into the city’s past, including ancient walls, wells and the skull and tusks of a wooly mammoth that once roamed the land.

Upper floors above ground show the area’s flora and fauna.

A family looks at the skull and tusks of a woolly mammoth that once roamed the area at De Bastei, a museum of nature and culture.

“Just pick up a shovel and dig and you’ll find 2,000 years of history in this city,” says Joost Wennink, a volunteer guide at Nijmegen’s History House.

Rebuilding the Town from U.S. Bombs
World War II was a turning point in the history of Nijmegen. Throughout its years near the borders of Germany and France, it’s often been a target of foreign occupation.

But never did it suffer such devastation as that which happened on the afternoon of February 22, 1944. Whether it was by mistake or some sort of secret mission gone wrong, the city was bombed by friendly fire - from the Americans.

Rather than bombing the railroad yard, which would hamper German control of Nijmegen, the central city became a mistaken target. Hundreds of buildings were destroyed, creating a huge void in the center of the historic town.

This, in turn, has had interesting architectural consequences, with ancient churches, such as St. Stephen’s Church and the Marienburg Chapel, home to the History House, circa 1431, juxtaposed with modern establishments. For example, a TK Maxx, the European version of TJ Maxx, will open soon across from 17th-century buildings fronting the town center.

They’ll Never Forget
Though Americans mistakenly bombed Nijmegen, they were also part of freeing it from German control just seven months later. Making a bold daylight move, 700 soldiers bravely crossed the River Waal just a few kilometers from the German border.

Their boats were flimsy, and, on the opposite side of the river were the Germans, picking them off like sitting ducks.

Forty-eight American soldiers lost their lives that day and are now remembered with a daily bridge crossing by Dutch soldiers, either active or veterans. Private citizens of Nijmegen also take part in the daily crossing when they’re in the area.

A new bridge, De Oversteek, which translates into “The Crossing,” was completed in 2014, connecting the old city with the rapidly growing new sections of town.

Every night at sundown, rain or shine, 48 lights come on in slow succession. One after another the lights light up the bridge, honoring the 48 dead, as a single soldier, or multiples, walks slowly beneath.
The walk culminates in a salute of remembrance at a monument on the ground below the bridge, bearing the names of 48 soldiers from Massachusetts to California, Florida to Delaware and Texas to Washington State.

“We’ll be here every day,” says Regimental Sgt. Major Cor. Van Sen Dungen. “Those 48 Americans gave their lives. We can give them a few minutes of our time every day.”

You can find more information at www.europeremembers.com and www.liberationroute.com.

Eating Out in Nijmegen
“There really isn’t such a thing as ‘Dutch’ cuisine,’” says Wilma Tielbeke, office manager of Arsenal 1824, a former city arsenal that’s now home to two restaurants, the modern, hip Grand Cafe and an adjoining restaurant with a more laid-back vibe.

Due to the crossroads of cultures that call the country home, many different foodways have entered the Netherlands. You’ll find chicken satay, a Maylasian dish, on restaurant menus next to croquettes, which originated in France, and cheese toasties and pea soup, both Dutch favorites.

The repurposing of old buildings is of note in other city restaurants, as well. De Wagge, built in the 1600s as the town’s butter-weighing station, is now a restaurant serving steaks, ribs, and seafood on the town square. Note the original scales overhead as you dine. Butter was weighed here, as were cheese and other agricultural products, so it could be taxed and prices could be established.

Do You Want Fries with That?
Both restaurants at Arsenal 1824, as do many restaurants in town, offer a mix of flavors, from an American burger to steaks, nachos, spare ribs, and fries, the latter of which you’ll find as a side dish with almost every entree in the Netherlands.

You’ll need to ask for ketchup, though. In the Netherlands, as in most European countries, fries are best dipped in mayonnaise.

Eat Your Fill
You won’t go hungry in Nijmegen. Restaurants line the old streets. Prikkels, located on the bottom floor of a boutique, five-room hotel by the same name, is a popular place for breakfast - and servings are generous, starting with freshly squeezed orange juice before a board of bread, cheese, granola, and yogurt arrives at your table.

Prikkels has an interesting history as it marks the place where construction began following the bombing of the city in World War II.

“It’s the border between old and new Nijmegen,” says hotel owner Michiel Vries, who also owns the sister Hotel Linnen, once the offices for the Allied Forces during World War II.

Other good choices for dining are Parkzicht across from Valkhoff Park; Blonde Pater; and New Dutch Streetfood in the Marikenstraat outdoor “mall.” Whatever your palate demands, you’ll find it somewhere around the city - even KFC and McDonald’s, if you must.

Getting Around
You can easily travel to Nijmegen by train or car from Amsterdam’s Schiphol airport and its attached mall of hotels, restaurants and retails shops - convenient if you need to pick up any items you may have forgotten to pack.

It’s also the place to rent a car or hop on board a comfortable train - destination Nijmegen, about 125 kilometers (about 77 miles) south of Amsterdam.

As with most other cities in the Netherlands, the easiest way to get around Nijmegen is by bicycle, and you’ll find several places for bikes for rent. Check with your hotel for arrangements.

Bring Your Walking Shoes
The most convenient way to get around the city, though, is on foot, so bring your walking shoes and get some exercise. The town is small enough that walking is a wise mode of transportation.
Park your car in one of the convenient city lots. For the most part, the city is flat and walking is easy.
​

by Anne Braly
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Teton Valley Welcomes Visitors

8/27/2024

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Wyoming’s Jackson Hole needs little introduction for those who prefer mixing some high-priced glitz with their outdoor escapes. But just across the Teton Mountains along the Idaho/Wyoming border, the Teton Valley opens up to a wide spread of jaw-dropping beauty mixed with excitement and adventure rivaling Jackson Hole with a more casual attitude and somewhat less-expensive options.

“Many refer to Teton Valley as being the ‘quiet side of the Tetons,’ which I think is more about the easygoing and friendly demeanor of the people who live here,” says Kristi Baughman, president of Free Range Consulting, a marketing agency for Eastern Idaho. “It just also happens to be less crowded and, yes, more affordable than Jackson Hole.”

One example Baughman gives is the price of skiing, a popular activity in the Teton region. In Jackson Hole, lift ticket prices average $191, while on the other side of the mountains at, for example, Grand Targhee Resort, the cost hovers around $150 for the same thrills of racing down the side of the Teton Mountains.

“But that is almost secondary,” she says. “The residents are very welcoming and accommodating, but also very authentic. There is still a strong sense of agriculture here and it pairs nicely with those who really appreciate the outdoors. You can hike to Table Rock for some of the best views of the Tetons you’ll ever see or throw a paddleboard on the Teton River, where there is a good chance to see more moose than you thought possible in a three-mile stretch of river.”

There’s an adage used in the former ad campaign that boasts, “Teton Valley rewards the curious.”
So if your nature runs to the curious side, here is how to experience Idaho’s Teton Valley charming small towns of Driggs, Victor and Tetonia.

Getting There
If you’re not within driving distance, the quickest way to get to the Teton Valley is to fly into either Idaho Falls, Idaho, a little over an hour’s drive, or Jackson Hole, about an hour away, and rent a car at the airport, 
If you fly into Jackson Hole, you can take the Teton Pass into Driggs. A mudslide in June wiped out a portion of the pass, but a temporary detour has opened. 

However, if time allows, drive north through Teton National Park, just a stone’s throw from Jackson Hole and home to several incredible lakes, wildlife and history. Once through the park, it’s a very short drive to Yellowstone’s southern entrance where you’ll pass right by Old Faithful and the Grand Prismatic. Exit through the western entrance into the town of West Yellowstone, Mont., and about 90 minutes later, enter the Teton Valley into Tetonia, then Driggs and Victor.

There’s also a southern route into the Teton Valley south of Jackson through scenic Snake River Canyon leading into the valley from the south.

All three roads reveal some of Mother Nature’s spectacular work, leading to a valley in the shadow of the Three Sisters of the Teton Mountains: Grand Teton, Middle Teton and South Teton, defining the western border of Wyoming and the eastern border of Idaho.

Excitement Abounds
The Teton Valley is an outdoor lover’s dream come true. There’s no off-season. Winter brings on well-groomed slopes ready for skiers and snowboarders. Fall, spring and summer open up trails for horseback riding and mountain biking, and rivers are teeming with salmon and trout for fly fishing.

Secure a guide for fly fishing at places such as Three Rivers Ranch, a resort with a fly shop and lodging for fisherfolk. The ranch, now in its 38th year, takes guests to three nearby rivers: Henry’s Fork, which is the north fork of the Snake River; and the north and south forks of the Teton River. Bring your own gear or be outfitted when you get there. A fishing license is required.

Ride the Trails
The Tetons make for a great day of trail riding, and finding a stable, such as Linn Canyon Ranch, isn’t hard to do. You’ll find signs advertising such adventures throughout the valley. But Linn Canyon offers something different - lunch rides with beautiful box lunches to enjoy while taking a break along the mountain trail. The ranch will customize your ride, too, so you might enjoy your midday meal on the porch at the lodge.

Eat Your Fill
Tetonia is one of those blink-twice-and-you’ll-miss-it towns, but keep your eyes open and your tastebuds ready for Badger Creek Café for breakfast or lunch. It’s only open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Thursday through Monday serving made-from-scratch breakfast and, in the lunch hour, sandwiches, burgers, wings and more.
Tetonia Club is another option. It’s that kind of place where you’ll find the locals hanging out, listening to live music and feasting on different menus on weekend nights. It’s the first bar in the area, opened in 1912. The atmosphere is lively, and the drinks and food are amazing. Advance tickets can be purchased online and are advised as this is a popular destination for locals and visitors to the Teton Valley.

Continuing the culinary journey to Driggs and Victor, you’ll find some unexpected flavors for this part of the world where beef and potatoes rule supreme. In Driggs, Forage, open for lunch and dinner, offers elk, lamb, duck and other proteins in varying incarnations. But it’s the Asian-inspired Reuben with tender brisket and kimchi served with Kewpie mayo that knocks other Reubens out of the ballpark. Forage is located next to the Warbirds Museum at Driggs Airport, so after lunch or dinner, walk through the adjacent door to see its collections of airplanes from World War II or sign up for a flight that takes you up in the air to see the Tetons from a different perspective.

Other top food digs in Driggs are The Royal Wolf, Royal Thai and The Provision Kitchen.
Victor has a few culinary gems of its own, such as the Butter Cafe, The Brakeman American Grill and Refuge Tap House. But drive another 10 minutes outside Victor to The Grille at Bronze Buffalo Ranch, open breakfast through dinner and overlooking the golf course and beyond to the mountains. Dining al fresco on a pleasant Idaho evening is a gift, particularly when paired with a nice cabernet and made-from-scratch ravioli.

Drink Your Potatoes
Potatoes are a cash crop for the Gem State, so it’s not a big surprise that enterprising entrepreneurs Bob and Linda Beckett opened Grand Teton Distillery in Driggs to turn Idaho potatoes into vodka. Since opening in 2012, its Grand Teton Potato Vodka, made with Idaho spuds and water from the surrounding mountains and glaciers, has won numerous awards, including Double Gold at the World Spirits Competition in San Francisco. Tastings and distillery tours are offered on the hour for $5.

Be Your Huckleberry
Huckleberries grow wild throughout the Teton Valley and are ripe for the picking in late summer. Their sweet-sour flavor works perfectly in drinks and dishes, such as the huckleberry milkshakes you’ll find at the ice cream counter at Victor Emporium in Driggs - not Victor. It’s a creamy confection that will quench your thirst on a warm summer day.

Or, pick up a bottle of huckleberry vodka at Grand Teton Distillery. It makes a sweet-tart cocktail when mixed with lemonade.

Rooms With a View
There are a number of campgrounds, short-term rentals and roadside motels along the main drag - Highway 33 - through the Teton Valley. For a little more luxury, Grand Targhee Resort, high up in the mountains with close-up views of the Three Sisters, offers traditional hotel rooms and multi-room suites. 

Bronze Buffalo Ranch at Teton Springs offers luxurious accommodations in suites and cottages along a championship golf course designed by Master Course Architect Gary Stephenson, U.S. Open Champion Steve Jones and golf legend Byron Nelson.

Bronze Buffalo also has a full-service restaurant, cafe, pro shop and fitness center. Ponds are stocked for reeling in a prize rainbow trout, and don’t be surprised to see a moose grazing on the back nine as you walk along well-groomed hiking paths.

The Teton Takeaway
Give me the peace and tranquility of the Teton Valley any day over the busyness in Jackson Hole.
Jackson Hole has its merits, but it’s much like many tourist towns with a Starbucks, high-priced retail shops and some chain hotels, albeit disguised as mountain lodges.

But if you’re looking for a getaway, that’s truly a chance to get away, the drive over the border into Idaho, whether you go north, south or straight over the Tetons on the Teton Pass, set your sights on a vacation filled with memories.
​
by Anne Braly


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Travel to Kentucky Bourbon Trail

6/12/2024

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Want to make a beeline for the best bourbon-centric businesses in northern Kentucky?

Then sip your way along the Kentucky B-Line, a self-guided bourbon tour featuring 25 savory stops that stretch along 95 miles of the Bluegrass State. 

The B-Line, established in 2018, differs from Kentucky’s Bourbon Trail, established in 1999 to showcase the state’s 46 distilleries. The B-Line includes seven distilleries, nine bars and nine restaurants, all with a bourbon focus, and is a regional experience highlighted by quaint Ohio River towns such as Covington, directly across the river from Cincinnati. Take advantage of its location and walk beneath or across the historic Roebling Suspension Bridge, opened for traffic in 1867 and named for architect John Roebling, who later designed its twin, the Brooklyn Bridge, circa 1883. 

To be listed on the B-Line, restaurants must offer at least 50 bourbons and feature one or more bourbon-recipe dishes. Bars must have a minimum of 100 bourbons.

Pick up a “passport” guide at any of the B-Line stops and have it stamped at any two distilleries, two restaurants and two bars along the B-Line and earn swag, such as T-shirts, hats and other B-Line-branded merchandise.

You can arrange your own B-Line excursion by going online to www.thebline.com to download a map and plan your itinerary. Or, here’s a three-day suggestion for a memorable B-Line experience.


Day One
Begin your journey on the B-Line by checking into The Hotel Covington (hotelcovington.com), a former department store. This hotel and its sister connecting hotel, North, are now two hotels in one that make a statement when choosing a place to stay in the Kentucky/Cincinnati area.

The hotel was voted the No.1 boutique hotel in the Bluegrass State, according to U.S. News and World Report in 2022 and No. 2 in 2023.

Hotel Covington has queen and king rooms, and North has apartment-style suites and kitchenettes with full-size refrigerators, microwaves, and Nespresso coffee machines.

Every attention to detail has been taken, with luxury bedding and toiletries, as well as bath robes and minibars stocked with snacks, sodas, wine and, of course, Kentucky bourbon.

The landmark hotel is central to several stops on the B-Line, some of which you can walk to from the center of Covington, while others may require a designated driver, Uber or other rideshare service just in case you overindulge. Better safe than sorry.

Arrive at lunchtime, stow your luggage at the hotel and walk across the street to Rich’s Proper (richsproper.com), a bar and restaurant that specializes in craft cocktails and pub fare owner Bill Whitlow describes as Southern fusion.

Whitlow is a genius when it comes to crafting cocktails and was once a king in the competitive bartending circuit, having twice won best mint julep in Kentucky, an event sponsored by Four Roses Bourbon and the Kentucky Derby. He’s also a two-time winner of Best Manhattan at the Manhattan Experience, an annual competition sponsored by Woodford Reserve.

So, try his One Last Smoke, a bourbon-based concoction, to see what kind of magic an award-winning mixologist can create.

And on your plate? The most popular sandwich in the house is the Hot Honey Chicken Sandwich with a side of the crispiest, best fries you might ever taste.

There is a sense of community among B-Line members, Whitlow says.

“Without it, I probably wouldn’t be sending customers to all the other restaurants and distilleries around here,” he says.

Next Stop: Walk down the street to partake in a vintage spirits experience at Revival Vintage Spirits and Bottle Shop (revivalky.com).

Enter the shotgun-style building and be amazed. Bottles as old as your grandma and some even older line shelves that span the walls.

Co-owner Brad Bonds says his shop is like American Pickers meets Pawn Stars. Bonds scours the region in search of bourbons and other old spirits in basements and bars. They range from everyday libations to those reserved for special occasions.

“See that one up there?” Bond points to a top-shelf bourbon from Old Taylor Distillery. “If the pope were here, that’s the one he would drink.”

Another is a bourbon he acquired from an old bar in Covington, which Bond calls “the holy grail of holy grails.”

Most of his vintage bourbons are for sale. One, like an old bourbon from W.L. Weller & Sons, the forerunner of Buffalo Trace Distillery’s Pappy Van Winkle, sports a price tag north of $3,000.

“These bottles, each one is kind of like its own time capsule,” Bond says, pointing out an old bottle he got from Philadelphia Mayor Frank Rizzo’s grandson that was tied to the bar where Rizzo, along with Rat Pack buddies Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. enjoyed a drink or two, or three.

Patrons of this vintage spirits store can also purchase a Bourbon Experience for $5, $10 or $25, depending on the spirits you wish to try. 

Each sip is like a walk through time. “It’s humbling,” Bond says. “You just never know who’s going to walk through this door.”

Then, take a break back at Hotel Covington and rest up before a bourbon experience at Smoke Justis (smokejustis.com). The bar/restaurant wows you with a collection of 480 bourbons and more than 600 whiskeys that reach from bar level to ceiling.

Smoke Justis joined the B-Line in 2018, the year that Bourbon Review named it one of the top-100 bourbon bars in America.

“We’re known for our smooth bourbons and smoked meats,” says Jade Colwell, managing partner.
I recommend the smoked wings with Carolina Gold Sauce for dipping, and a house-favorite Old Fashioned with a signature ice cube emblazoned with the Smoke Justis logo.

The hardy traveler might finish the day with dinner at B-Line restaurant, Lisse Steakhuis (lisse.restaurant).
Walk off your meal with a stroll through Covington’s charming German heritage sector, Mainstrasse Village. It’s filled with retail and restaurants like Lisse Steakhuis, a Dutch-influenced American steakhouse with a farm-to-table mandate. Its prime, black Angus beef, pork, chicken and fresh produce come from its own Holland Farm in nearby Williamstown, Ky.

The menu features Dutch specialties - Kaassoufle, Bitterballen and an Indo-Dutch favorite, Nasi Goreng, as well as dry-aged steaks, pork chops, steak and lobster, and a luscious bone-in rib eye. 


Day Two
Start your second day with breakfast at Anchor Grill. This no-frills, cash-only eatery was Food & Wine magazine’s No. 1 diner in Kentucky for 2022. Try the goetta, a sausage-like ground pork mixture that’s a regional specialty. 

Hotel Covington’s restaurant, Coppin’s, also has goetta, as well as an omelet that covers your plate and other breakfast fare.

Then, onto more bourbon tastings.

Neely Family Distillery in nearby Sparta, Ky., is in its 11th generation of bourbon makers, this latest generation took to legally distilling after the previous 10 generations bootlegged in the Kentucky mountains. Take a tour and taste at the bar afterward. Stop by or make a reservation at neeleyfamilydistillery.com.
Time that liquor experience with a short trip to Burlington, Ky., and food at Tousey House Tavern. Located in a 200-year-old home, the tavern serves Southern favorites, like its own take on a Hot Brown.

Then, to re-lift your spirits, go to Boone County Distilling (1061 Toebben Dr., Florence, Ky.).
Boone honors its bourbon history by its motto: Made by Ghosts. Those “ghosts” are the distillers who paved the way. The distillery opened in 2015 and is on a small scale, but the flavors are big and bold. Tastings are held in an oversized bourbon barrel. Reservations: boonedistilling.com.

After a full day of bourbon, have dinner at Purple Poulet in Newport, a river town neighboring Covington. The restaurant is an area favorite serving Southern fare, including fried chicken that Southern Living rated as the best fried chicken in Kentucky in 2018. 


Day Three
It’s your final day of sips on the B-Line, so make the most of it by starting early at New Riff Distilling. It’s among the newest of the B-Line distilleries, this year celebrating its 10th year of making bourbon in the traditional way of Kentucky’s past distillers, then putting their own riff on it, using water from an alluvial aquifer deep within below the distillery. Learn all about it by taking a tour, then relax with a hand-crafted cocktail and small bites in the newly opened bar space on the top floor. For tour reservations, visit newriffdistilling.com.

The New Riff tour takes about an hour, after which a return trip to Covington finds bourbon lovers blending their own libations at Wenzel Whiskey (wenzelwhiskey.com).

The blending experience offers guests four bourbons for tastings, then gives lessons on blending a bottle to your specifications. An ounce or two of this, a little of that one, and you walk out the door with a bottle of your own recipe and your name on it.
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“It’s like the arts and crafts of bourbon,” says co-owner Whitlow, the same man who owns Rich’s Proper.
The business is currently open for the blending experience only, but by summer 2024, Wenzel will begin distilling its own bourbon, becoming the first active distillery in the Covington city limits since Prohibition.
Return to Covington’s Mainstrasse Village for dinner at Bouquet Restaurant, a sister eatery of Lisse Steakhouse. I suggest any of the fish dishes served with fresh vegetables from Holland Farms. The menu changes weekly, as offerings depend on what’s in season. Regardless, it’s sure to be a delectable delight.

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Calling All To Visit Windy Hill Farms

2/27/2024

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Hunters are right on point when they gather in the pastures of East Tennessee to hunt quail at Windy Hill Farm and Preserve. But up until four years ago, that’s about all there was to do. 

Now folks, both quail hunters and nonhunters alike, gather in coveys to celebrate the land and all of its bounty, not just the quail, though the upland bird is a large part of an escape into Tennessee’s backcountry at Windy Hill. The boutique resort is spread over 650 acres embraced by the Smokies to the east and the Cumberland Plateau to the west.

On The Hunt
There are two hunts available every day. Early birds can get out of the fields around 9 a.m. or sleep in and hit the fields around 1 in the afternoon. All hunts include professional guides as well as trained bird dogs that are adept at finding quail hidden deep within the grasses in fields bordering the Tennessee River.

Windy Hill owner Steven Brewington’s family bought the farm back in 2001 and built a beautiful farmhouse overlooking the river. He spent much of his youth hunting and traipsing through the fields and woods of the family property, once a cattle farm. 

Those years, he says, gave him a chance to learn more about the intricacies of land management and, after graduating from University of Tennessee at Knoxville, he worked alongside a team of agriculture specialists from UTK to bring the land back to life, planting the correct grasses to sustain a healthy population of quail.
“We started releasing birds before 2018 and we saw our first hatchlings about three springs ago,” Brewington says. “So now we are reproducing and brooding all the way from birth to survivability now. And people from surrounding farms are telling me they are really appreciating having wild quail back in their fields, as well.”

The fields are stocked with pen-raised quail most every day to supplement the wild population to ensure hunters will have a memorable experience.

In 2018, Brewington began offering guided hunts and, wanting to offer a full experience to hunters, built a lodge with a kitchen, offering overnight accommodations in the home that his grandfather built on the property. Brewington and farm manager Prescott Stone slowly began developing the property to expand the quail preserve into a resort that offered experiences that went beyond hunting.

Cabins were built and opened in 2021, and the lodge was expanded to include Wilder, a restaurant that now feeds not only guests at Windy Hill but also folks from around the area who want a taste of Chef Ben Warwick’s creative take on Southern favorites. The restaurant also offers an unparalleled setting with views of the surrounding Tennessee Valley. 

The most recent addition to the resort is an eight-room luxury bunkhouse, bringing the number of overnight accommodations to 17 rooms that include the nine cabins and five more bedrooms in the farmhouse.

Dining at Wilder
Chef Ben Warwick grew up in the Knoxville culinary scene and worked at several cutting-edge restaurants in Knoxville while working his way up the food chain, cutting his teeth on international cuisine at places, including Mango, Cha-Cha, and Stirfry. 

He also worked for a spell at Cherokee Country Club before moving on to Blackberry Farm in nearby Walland, Tenn.

“Our goal was to have culinary experiences in the Tennessee Valley with an international player, and Ben has jumped in headfirst with us,” Brewington says. “He’s really doing some cool international stuff.”

Three meals a day are included in a stay at Windy Hill. For breakfast, the menu features a nice choice of favorites, including a bowl of mouthwatering goat cheese grits. Lunch offers a nice mix of salads, sandwiches, and made-from-scratch soups. Dinner is in an event to be remembered, particularly if you order the elk chop.

Though the menu changes with the seasons, Warwick says that the elk is a house favorite that stays on the menu year-round, and for good reason. It’s seasoned to perfection and fork-tender with each bite. It’s an amazing piece of meat. 

In keeping with the quail theme that encompasses this resort, buttermilk fried quail is on the dinner menu each night, as well. Both the elk and the quail are part of a four-course meal served at dinner each night at Wilder.

Beyond The Hunt
For non-hunters or hunters looking to step out of the field for a while, the resort offers a wide range of activities, some, such as hiking, biking, yard games and s’mores around the campfire, are included in a stay at Windy Hill, while others are offered at an added cost. 

One of the favorites is a wine hike through the woods. This is an experience like none other for xenophiles and nature lovers, giving guests a unique opportunity to sample five different wines and learn about the geography and topography of the earth beneath your feet along a mile-long route.

Wine “stations” are set up in strategic places along an easy winding path, and as guests sip and stroll, a guide talks about the wines and the woodlands. Wear sturdy shoes and get ready for an experience like none other. The 90-minute hike with generous pours is $125.

The sport of archery has exploded in popularity in recent years, and Windy Hill offers a chance to test your skills under the direction of a trained guide for $45 per one-hour session. Or, sip and savor your way through a flight of bourbons with an afternoon bourbon tasting under the tutelage of a member of the food and beverage team for $95 per person.

Other add-ons are:
  • A beekeeping and honey tasting at the farm’s apiary
  • Sporting clays at the five stand
  • Fishing in the farm ponds for bass and catfish - poles and boat included
  • Kayaking and paddle boarding on the Tennessee River
  • A cooking class led by Chef Ben Warrick
  • Mountain biking
  • In-room massages, especially good after a day at Windy Hill, hiking, biking, hunting, and indulging in an escape from the busyness of every-day life

The staff at Windy Hill will also curate you stay and accommodate guests’ whims and wishes as best they can. For information or reservations at Windy Hill, visit windyhillfarmtn.com.

by Anne Braly
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VIva Las Vegas

10/30/2023

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The Plaza Hotel and Casino, located on a historic plot of land once occupied by the Las Vegas railroad depot, sports a new look, energizing the vibe of the 52-year-old property. The makeover is dubbed the  “Main Street Reimagination” project that debuted earlier this year.

Where there once was a porte-cochère that operated as a driveway for guests, taxis, and ride-share vehicles, the iconic porte-cochere is now home to the whimsical Carousel Bar that serves creative handcrafted cocktails among life-sized Vegas-themed elements, including carousel horses moving up and down, and offers the cities first outdoor tabletop slot machines. The bar is flanked by another first - the city’s first smoke-free casino and, on the opposite side, Pinkbox Doughnuts. Cast your eyes skyward and you’ll find that the popular Oscar’s Steakhouse now offers al fresco dining on a rooftop patio overlooking Fremont Street, which is, if you’re unaware of the town’s history, the original Las Vegas Strip.

“The owners wanted to enhance the hotel’s facade at One Main Street to create a one-of-a-kind destination for cocktails, gaming, entertainment, and dining in the heart of downtown, Las Vegas,” says Amy Maier, hotel spokesperson.

And that they did. It’s all part of the Plaza’s commitment to enhancing the customer experience.


Sleep Tight
There are 998 guest rooms occupying two towers at the Plaza. Rooms in the north tower are accessed by elevators off the lobby, and the top floors were updated a couple of years ago with the addition of the luxe guest rooms and suites. Updates to these accommodations include premium bedding, modern baths with upscale toiletries, and towels large enough to wrap yourself in luxury when you step out of the shower - a nice plus.

Elevators to the south tower rooms are located off the casino floor and were renovated previously. 

The hotel itself is situated so that rooms have views of the pool, pickleball courts, and stunning Las Vegas mountains beyond on one side or, on the other, the sights of the action on Fremont Street.

Take A Dip
The pool area is accessible from the south tower and features a bar, food truck serving pizza, chicken fingers, sandwiches and snacks, cabanas that may be rented, and a large shaded area to keep the sun at bay.

The pool is a busy place on a hot Las Vegas day, but there are ample lounge chairs and some padded daybeds to sit back and relax with a good book while sipping an icy pina colada or cold soft drink.
Towel service is provided, so no need to take a towel from your room.

If you’re a fan of poolside play, book a room at pool level with small patios overlooking the pool. They’re convenient to the bar, the food truck, and the 12 pickleball courts.


Dining At The Plaza
Oscar’s Steakhouse
An award-winning restaurant, Oscar’s Steakhouse is one of the top steakhouses in the city, and that says a lot as there are some great steaks to be found in many restaurants in town. But at Oscar’s, it’s not all about the beef. It’s the service, too. Combined, the two make this a must when you plan to dine in downtown Vegas. You know you’ve found a good steakhouse when you find that it’s been voted best steak in Vegas, best view and best place to celebrate by Casino Players magazine.

The New York strip, not known to be the most tender of cuts, nears a state of fork-tenderness, like the filets on the menu. It’s seasoned perfectly and so delicious you may find yourself forgoing the side dishes to finish off your steak. No matter the cut, Oscar’s has figured out the secret to a good steak, one that you’ll put up against any other steak you may ever have.

As for the service: You know when you have a server who seems to know your likes and dislikes as soon as you sit down and recommends his favorite dishes as he delivers a cocktail to your table, one he’s picked out just for you? It’s like you get just a little bit jealous when he attends another table. But then you remember: That’s his job.

Oscar’s new outdoor dining venue seats another 225 people and is the ideal place for a romantic dinner under the stars with views of the city lights.

Oscar’s is a dinner-only establishment. Reservations are highly recommended (oscarslv.com).

Hash House A Go-Go
There are many things that are over the top in Las Vegas. Dishes at Hash House A Go Go are among them. It lives up to its motto: “twisted farm food.” Actually, that’s an understatement. Plates are oversized, as are the meals, so wear your stretchy pants and go ahead with the chicken and waffles, one of its signature dishes with giant Belgian waffles and two big sage-fried chicken breasts adorned with a tall stalk of rosemary. This is not meant for the timid, and you might want to share it with your mate.
Hash House is open for breakfast through dinner daily (hashhouseagogo.com).

Pinkbox Doughnuts
It’s hard to miss Pinkbox doughnuts, a local chain that screams hot pink! Don’t expect just any cream-filled or glazed pastry here. You’ll find Tutti Frutti, Purple Rain, Raspberry Squeeze, Java Mama, Cherry Bomb - or, if you must, a glazed or sugar doughnut. But please. You’re in Vegas, so no one back home will know. Go ahead and get a dozen.

Pinkbox (pinkboxdougnuts.com) is located off the casino floor and also has an entrance on Main Street through a giant 12-foot tall 3-D doughnut. It’s open 24 hours on the weekends and from 5 a.m.-2 p.m. on weekdays.

Pop Up Pizza
For a truly New York-style pizza, pop into Pop Up. The slices are big and foldable, the telltale sign these people know the difference between an ordinary pizza and the kind that makes New York pizza in a class by itself. Order pizzas by the slices or the whole pie. The crispy pepperoni is a favorite. Pop Up Pizza (popupizzalv.com)  is open for lunch through late night seven days.

Food To Go
There’s a food court conveniently located off the lobby area with Subway, McDonald’s, a Mexican eatery, and Aloha Hawaiian Grill, making a nice option if you don’t want to commit yourself to a full-service meal.


Take A Gamble
The Plaza’s casino has everything a gambler might want - table games; more than 700 slot machines, from penny slots to high-dollar;  Keno; a large sports book; and downtown’s only bingo hall.

With a bar, pizza joint and doughnut shop, both just off the casino floor, you have everything at hand for a few hours to try your luck. 

Smoking is allowed in the main casino, but the filtration system seems to do a good job of keeping the smell at bay. However, the non-smoking casino space - the first in downtown Las Vegas - is totally separate from the main casino, unlike some other casinos that offer nonsmoking areas as an afterthought. Access is gained from outside via the Plaza’s porte-cochere. The new casino space was opened in collaboration with gambling influencer Brian Christopher and, though small, is perfect for those needing a break from the smokers - or just a shiny new casino with some fun slot machines and spots for selfies.

Rockin’ To The Blues
The Sand Dollar Downtown is another addition to the Plaza. It’s the second location for the iconic blues bar. 
The first is still going strong and in a small office complex about a mile from The Strip. It was a place where legends such as B.B. King, Muddy Waters, The Who, and other famous musicians could come, drink and play in a laid-back atmosphere. 

The original Sand Dollar is small, but its second location is larger at 4,000 square feet and has room for at least 300 more guests while retaining the vibe for which The Sand Dollar has been known. There’s live music nightly, hand-crafted cocktails, pizza, pool tables, and, on Thursdays, happy hour for hotel guests from 4 to 5 p.m. 

The blues lounge is located off the casino floor and is open from 4 p.m.-4 a.m. daily (thesanddollarlv.com).


Looking Ahead
Future plans at The Plaza include a pedestrian-friendly walkway that will connect the Plaza with Symphony Park, a mixed-use development home to arts, a children’s museum and other attractions.

The nearby former Greyhound bus terminal is also being developed into an area for new restaurants, entertainment and retail establishments.

“We are very excited to usher in this new era on Main Street,” says Plaza Hotel and Casino CEO Jonathan Jossel. “Main Street is where downtown started, and today, it remains the heart of downtown, connecting a thriving Arts District, and popular destinations like the Plaza, Fremont Street Experience, our newest neighbor, Circa, and much more.

Outside the Plaza
Fremont Street, a magnificent five city blocks with a covered dome, is directly across the street from The Plaza and offers a whirlwind of action. Along this original section of the Las Vegas Strip, you’ll find historic casinos like Binions; more hotels, such as the newly opened Circa with the largest sportsbook in the world and six salt-water pools; Slotzilla, a monster zipline; more restaurants; and shops. In fact, within seven city blocks, you can explore 12 casinos and more than 75 bars and restaurants. There’s even a Walgreens to pick up some Alka Seltzer if you need some relief from a night on the town.

“Fremont Street Experience has become a trendy spot to visit,” says Paul McGuire, chief marketing officer for Fremont Street Experience. “It used to be that you would come to Vegas and occasionally carve out an afternoon to go downtown. Now, many visitors make it a point to stay downtown and occasionally make a trip to the strip.

With three outdoor stages, Fremont Street is also the place to be for free live music every day of the year.
And then there’s Slotzilla …

Harness up and get ready to be launched from the largest slot machine in the world –-seven stories up, or, if you dare, four stories higher - while traveling beneath the Fremont Street canopy with people gawking at you while you fly by at 35 miles an hour.

It’s an experience like none other. But then again, so is Vegas.
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by Anne Braly

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Take a Trip to the Brunswick Islands

8/25/2023

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North Carolina’s Brunswick Islands span 45 miles along the southern coast of the Tarheel State’s Brunswick County, and each of its five barrier islands and six beaches has its own personality, offering a different set of adventures and discoveries. From family-friendly Holden Beach to the charming, laid-back village of Calabash where seafood is served by the platterful in true Calabash style, visitors can pick an island to fit whatever kind of vacation suits their fancy.
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But there are several things that each island and small town have in common: Great food; charming hotels with no high rises in sight; and people who will go out of their way to greet you and welcome you to their little piece of paradise.

Sunset Beach and Bird Island
Bird Island and Sunset Beach, the southernmost beach along the chain of Brunswick Islands, were once two islands, but hurricanes have married the two, so as you walk the shoreline, it’s difficult to determine the division that once separated them. However, Gary and Teresa Massey, who operate Sunset Beach Pier, are happy to answer any questions you may have. The 900-foot pier, offering fishing licenses and rods and a snack bar, is a good starting point for your Sunset Beach experience. 

It’ll cost you $1 to get on the pier, but once there, you can fish at no charge and also learn about the history of the area dating back to the 1600s on detailed signs posted along the pier’s railing. It makes for a fascinating learning experience.

The beach is wide and welcoming, but there’s something that draws people to the beach other than the surf and sand … something the state of North Carolina treasures: the Kindred Spirit Mailbox.

Mailbox In The Sand
The area around Sunset Beach Pier is abuzz with activity, but walk a few hundred feet from sunbathers and surfers, and you’ll find yourself largely alone, taking in the sights and sounds of nature around you. Keep walking and you’ll eventually come upon a lone mailbox planted in the sand at the top of a sand dune.

The Kindred Spirit Mailbox, located on Bird Island, is a repository for your thoughts and hopes for mankind, your stories of love, life and loss - whatever’s on your mind. When the mailbox is full, volunteer keepers of the mailbox collect the notebooks, loose letters, photos - whatever’s left inside - and donate them to be archived in the library at University of North Carolina Wilmington.

Nicholas Sparks wrote a book, “Every Breath,” about it, and when a hurricane or other weather event threatens the mailbox, the state of North Carolina sends someone out to remove it to a safe place.

To get there, rent a bike from Julie’s Rentals or walk the two miles from the pier. Climb the dune, open the box and you’ll find notebooks and pens inside to write down whatever story you wish to tell. There are benches where you can sit and reflect, overlooking the sea in front of you and the protected North Carolina Reserve and National Estuarine Research Reserve at your back. It’s been a tradition in Brunswick County for more than 35 years.

Coastal Varietals
Located just 15 minutes inland from Sunset Beach in Ocean Isle Beach, Silver Coast Winery is a welcome addition to the area for wine lovers. And if you’re wondering how vintner Maryann Azzato can grow European-style grapes in a coastal area, here’s the answer: She doesn’t. The grapes are grown in the cooler mountainous areas of North Carolina and Georgia and imported to her winery where they are crushed, made into wines aged in stainless steel tanks or oak barrels and bottled onsite.
“I originally wanted to start a wine club because good wines were hard to find in this area at that time. Who knew Brunswick County would become one of the fastest-growing counties in the country?” she asks. “So I did my due diligence and found out that wines from other states and countries couldn’t be imported into North Carolina.”

One thing led to another, she adds, so she purchased a former barbecue restaurant in the Ocean Isle Beach community and started making her own. Since then, her wines, such as her Touriga wine, a Portugese red using grapes from Dahlonega, Ga., have won numerous national and international awards.

“I’ve come a long way from making wines in my basement with my dad,” she says.

Silver Coast Winery (silvercoastwinery.com) makes about a dozen dry to semi-sweet wines with a new varietal offered each year.

After a few tastes of wine, you may need something on your stomach. The shrimp burger at Sharky’s, along with amazing fries, is a top choice for al fresco dining along the canal in Ocean Isle. If you happen to leave a few fries on your plate, the seagulls will thank you for that. Other suggestions for dining in Ocean Isle are Jink’s Creek Waterfront Grill (try the Grouper Francaise with Shrimp) or Ocean Isle Fish Company and have a drink in its tiki bar overlooking Ocean Isle Beach.

A Delicious Bash in Calabash
Calabash isn’t just the name of a town, it’s a way of eating that started in this small North Caroline hamlet. Simply put, Calabash-style seafood translates to good eating - and plenty of it. Rather than heavy breading, Calabash seafood is locally harvested fish, oysters, shrimp, clams - whatever fruits de mer the sea decides to share on any given day - lightly battered and fried to a golden brown and always - always - served with hushpuppies.

Captain Robert Taylor of Calabash Fishing Fleet (calabashfishingfleet.com) owns several boats that ply the waters of Calabash River and the Atlantic Ocean in search of seafood to bring back to his riverside Waterfront Seafood Shack Market and Eatery.

Standing on the dock beside his 65-foot “Navigator,” an ocean-going vessel that can be chartered for deep-sea fishing and dolphin cruises, Taylor tells a history of Calabash seafood.

“Years ago, all the little restaurants around here had small back porches for the folks coming in with fish they’d caught, and they would cook it for them,” he says. “Back then, cooks marinated the seafood in Carnation milk before it was fried. And they fried it in lard. Most restaurants don’t do that anymore, though,” Taylor said.

His secret to some of the best seafood in Calabash? He adds a little Old Bay seasoning to the flour. And for his hushpuppies, he adds a little onion to make them savory rather than the sweeter hushpuppies served at many other Calabash restaurants.

You’ll find Capt. Robert around the docks in an area with several restaurants, such as Captain Nance’s Seafood, the Dockside Seafood House Restaurant and the Oyster Rock Waterfront Restaurants. Unfortunately, Ella’s, one of the oldest restaurants in Calabash and a town favorite, burned down the week I was there.

A Town Full of History
Southport is a town steeped in history. Just take a self-guided walking tour and you’ll discover why. The neighborhoods surrounding the historic downtown area have lovely Victorian homes with magnificent, welcoming front porches shaded by ancient live oaks, many with historic markers from the mid-1800s, designating their place in Southport’s past. Or walk through Smithport Burial Grounds, and if you’re one of those who can spend an afternoon walking through old cemeteries, this one will enrapture you with graves dating back to 1804, their markers roughened and weathered through centuries of guarding the final restating places of ship captains, veterans of wars, their wives and children.

Hollywood discovered Southport years ago and found it to be the perfect setting for movies such as “Safe Haven,” based on Nicholas Sparks’ book of the same name and filmed in sites all around town. There’s a walking tour for that, too.

You’ll work up an appetite with all that walking, so take a break and walk to the end of Yacht Basin Drive where you’ll find several restaurants, such as Fishy Fishy Café, Provision Company and The Frying Pan.

Finish your day at the North Carolina Maritime Museum at Southport, a small museum that tells the story of the town dating back to the time when the Cape Fear Indians were its primary residents.

Oak Island
Beach life in Oak Island and its Caswell Beach centers around its 880-foot pier, the place where you’ll find two popular restaurants - Ruby’s Coffeehouse and Eatery which opens early for breakfast or a light lunch, and Coco Cobana, open for lunch and dinner with amazing views, good cocktails and delicious fresh fish tacos.

The island isn’t as busy as some others, but it’s a good place to kick back and enjoy a beach vacation with no chain eateries and, like all Brunswick Island beaches and barrier islands, no chain hotels. A good one on Oak Island is Beach House at Oak Island, a roadside hotel from the 1950s, newly refurbished and within easy walking distance of the pier. Oak Island is an oasis of natural beauty with beautiful shells on the beach and good fishing, too. It’s a beach vacation like baby boomers may have experienced long ago - a hidden gem among the Brunswick Islands.

Family Fun
Families planning a trip to the Brunswick Islands should first check out the scene at Holden Beach. Named one of the top beaches for families in the country by National Geographic Traveler, Holden offers something for every beach lover: Miles of wide, white sandy beaches that, at low tide, offer room for everyone; golf courses; great shopping; and amazing seafood in restaurants like Mermaid’s Island Grill, where the clam chowder and burgers are said to be the best on the beach.

Watching your budget? Bird watching and shelling are great on Holden Beach, especially on the underdeveloped eastern end of the beach. And at Bridgeview Park, the kids can play on the playground and dance beneath waterworks on the splash pad. The park also offers picnic tables, bocce ball and a pier with docks for temporary docking. Or relax, wet a line and do some surf fishing or cast your line from high up on the Holden Beach Pier.

Charters for deep-sea fishing are available at several outfitters, such as Catch 22 Charters or Ollie Raja Charters. Kayak and bike rentals and any other beach gear you may need can be found at Mr. Beach Rentals at Holden Beach Marina.

For more information on the Brunswick Islands and everything it offers, from family fun to quiet reflection, visit ncbrunswick.com.

by Anne Braly
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Be Sure to Bike and Paddle in Tallahassee

8/25/2023

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Tallahassee may be best known as home to the Seminoles of Florida State University or the capital of the Sunshine State, but what you may not know is it’s one of the top places in the state for adventure-seekers. A trip to “Tally,” as the locals know it, offers the ideal solution: fun in the outdoors, wonderful hotels, such as the fun Hotel Indigo (ihg.com) in the heart of FSU country; and dining at restaurants, both casual for a sandwich or a chef-driven steakhouse. 
 
Go for a Ride 
Mountain biking in Florida? Don’t laugh. You don’t need massive mountains to go mountain biking. With more than 700 miles of trails, Tallahassee is better known among the outdoor community as Trailahassee. And one of the top ones for biking is the Magnolia Trail, a 2.5-mile loop that skirts Apalachicola National Forest at Tom Brown Park. 

Tallahassee has trails that test your skills - the kind where boulders get in the way, trees dart out from nowhere and narrowing trails that make passage difficult, at best. The Magnolia Trail, for example, has twists and turns with moderate inclines that present a challenging yet doable ride for those with basic bicycle skills. Florida’s a big state, but not everything’s wide open. And North Florida is certainly not flat. 

St. Marks Historic Trail is a good option for those who want a more-leisurely ride. It runs 21 miles along an old railroad line from just south of Florida State University all the way to the Gulf of Mexico. The trail is paved and mostly flat, making it more easily navigated by less-skilled bikers. 

Bring your own bike or arrange for a rental from The Great Bicycle Shop (www.gbs.bike).  

​Zipping Through the Canopy
Tallahassee Museum (www.tallahasseemuseum.org) is a celebration of endurance, nature and history. 

Test your endurance on the ropes course and zip line that take you through the canopy above the museum’s wetlands. Tallahassee Tree to Tree features obstacles such as bridges, swinging logs, tight ropes high in the air … think of those men in tights at the circus. Get the picture? The dozens of challenges are met with zip lines in between. The course takes about an hour to complete. Wear sturdy shoes and get ready for an experience that, when you slide down that final zip line, leaves you with a sense of relief and accomplishment. And you may be asking yourself, “Wow, did I really do that?”

The museum is a nature center with 52 acres of native flora and fauna that can be seen along nature trails, in the butterfly garden and from a raised boardwalk that takes you around large natural enclosures where deer, turkey, bobcats and other animals native to the area roam.

History is brought to life with 14 historic buildings that tell the story of life as it once was around North Florida, including the Bellevue Plantation House, a Tallahassee cotton plantation that was once home to George Washington’s great grandniece. 


Paddling the Waterways
While Tallahassee isn’t on the coast, it offers a wealth of watery possibilities, from paddle boarding to kayaking the rivers that run through it. The Wacissa River has an easy current that requires some paddling, but no difficult moves. It’s the perfect experience for beginner paddlers, but is also good for those with more experience. The sights and sounds of nature are all around you. Alligators, jumping fish, maybe a snake slithering onto a bank, herons, bald eagles. The Wacissa is a scenic wonder - wide and open. But venture off the main channel where the river branches off. I was fully expecting to see Tarzan swinging through the ancient trees chasing the creature from the black lagoon. It’s an eerie feeling, but you’ll want to continue paddling because in several places, there are some great swimming holes. Big Blue Spring is one and has a rope swing for those of you brave enough to jump into the seemingly bottomless hole.

Harry Smith Outdoors (hsmithoutdoors.com) is one of a several outfitters who will arrange a kayaking experience for you. They’ll bring your kayak to the river and take it back when you’re done. 


Where to Eat
After a day in the outdoors, hunger hits, and Tallahassee has the answer. This is a college town, after all, so visit the area around FSU if you’re looking for good bars and casual dining choices. Madison Social (www.madisonsocial.com) is one that has a good bar scene and the kind of food you’d expect - burgers, sandwiches, salads. And if you’re a fan of the Seminoles, the view isn’t bad, either. Right out the door is Doak Campbell Stadium.

Another suggestion is Table 23 (www.table23tally), a favorite place for locals, so you know it’s doing the right thing. The fare is Southern with a twist - pecan-crusted okra, pimento cheese with a side of guacamole or pork chops brined in sweet tea. Get the picture?

Then, there’s Il Lusso (www.illussotlh.com). Make reservations for this place, then get ready for an unforgettable evening. From the impeccable service to the presentation to the wine list, I can’t say enough about an evening spent here. Plates are made for sharing, so don’t be shy. Il Lusso is a steakhouse; an Italian eatery; an experience in dining. It’s the kind of place you’ll want to take your time and savor every bite, every sip.
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by Anne Braly
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Journey Along the Hank Williams Trail

8/22/2023

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Before meeting his tragic end at the young age of 29, Hank Williams lived a life of poverty followed by glamour before plummeting into the depths of drug addiction and alcoholism.

Regardless of the lifestyle he led, he set the stage for modern country music, singing brutally honest songs about his life and the language of the common man.

Fans of Williams and music historians can now follow a path through Alabama to witness Williams’ life from his childhood to stardom along Alabama’s Hank Williams Trail. The trail takes riders on a road trip between Georgiana and Fort Payne, creating a journey lovers of country music should make at least once in their lifetime. It tells a story of one of Alabama’s most famous sons, from his beginnings as the child of a railroad engineer who was mostly absent from his son’s life to the glamour of stardom and Williams’ tragic demise.

Over the span of his life, Williams recorded more than 165 songs. Though he could not read a note of music, he was a wordsmith when it came to writing hits that have become part of the American songbook.
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The trail is a 250-mile trip through history that includes a visit to Williams’ boyhood home and ends at a barbershop where he made one of his last stops before dying in his car in West Virginia on his way to perform at a concert in Ohio. “The Alabama Tourism Department has done an incredible job with the Hank Williams Trail, and it’s a great way to experience some of my dad’s life story,” says his daughter, Jett Williams.

Here are some trail highlights:

Georgiana
Williams lived here from 1931 to 1934. It was in this house at 127 Rose Street that he played his first guitar, having bought it by selling peanuts and shining shoes at the town depot.
This site includes thousands of newspaper clippings, photos of family and friends, record albums and 45s, royalty receipts, clothes, one of Williams’ early guitars, the old wooden bench he stood on to sing at Mount Olive Baptist Church in nearby Greenville, Ala., - there are too many items to list, and it will take a couple of hours to take in the scope of the collection at the Hank Williams Boyhood Home & Museum.
Among the more unusual items in the small house is a stage light used in the Municipal Auditorium for the show “Louisiana Hayride.” The Hank Williams Festival is on the grounds the first Saturday each June. Online: www.hankmuseum.com.

Montgomery
Montgomery is ground zero for Hank Williams. He called it home from 1937 to 1948 and moved back in 1952. He lived there at the time of his death.

Hank Williams Museum
This museum is the tell-all of Williams’ life - both public and private. The collection includes thousands of pieces of not only his, but also of his wife’s, Audrey’s, past - furniture from their house in Nashville and suits, including several handmade Nudie suits. There are guitars, bills and other receipts, and artwork. The collection is massive, but its crowning jewel is the baby blue 1953 Cadillac in which Williams died. It’s on loan from his son, Hank Williams Jr.

Take your time touring the museum, when you’re done, browse the gift shop - ticket and shop sales and private donations fund the museum. Online: hankwilliamsmuseum.net.

Chris’ Hot Dogs
This shotgun-style eatery is the oldest restaurant in the city and was Williams’ favorite place to eat - and drink.

“He’d order two hot dogs all the way - mustard, sauerkraut, onions and Chris’ famous chili sauce - and a Budweiser and a shot of Jack,” a server said when asked about Hank Williams’ favorite dog. Williams’ seat isn’t marked, but it was one of 12 stools along the counter. There are also booths and tables, so it’s not hard to find a seat and eat where the Hillbilly Shakespeare once dined. Online: www.chrishotdogs.com.

D’Road Café
This cafe, the former location of the Elite Cafe, is worth at least a drive-by to see where Williams made his final public performance just four days before he died. The Elite opened in 1911 and was a Montgomery institution before it closed in 1990. Now reopened as the D’Road Cafe, the restaurant allows visitors to sit in the place where Williams last performed. Online: droadcafe.com.

Hank Williams Gravesite
On your way out of town, visit Oakwood Cemetery. It’s here, high atop a hill, where Hank and Audrey Williams are buried. Inscriptions at the base of Hank’s headstone remind visitors of his most well-known songs, such as “Kaw-Liga,” “I Can’t Help It” and “Jambalaya.”


Birmingham
The Redmont Hotel, 2101 Fifth Ave. N., is the place where Hank Williams spent his last night in 1952 and is also the oldest hotel in Alabama still in operation. Remodeling a few years ago reconfigured many of the guest rooms, but Williams’ room was on what is now the third floor, somewhere around what is now room 304.

Step off the elevator on the third floor and you’ll see a wooden plaque with four of Williams’ records. This is the only floor displaying any Hank Williams decor and is a silent tribute to one of the hotel’s most famous guests. Online: www.redmontbirmingham.com.


Fort Payne
On the eve of his death, Hank Williams stopped by Carter’s Barber Shop for a haircut and a shave from barber Howard Simpson. He also had a sip or two or three - maybe more - of moonshine while there. When Simpson died, he left the chair that Williams sat in to local barber Alton Beason, who opened his shop at 1719 Gault Avenue. It’s now on display in a corner of the shop, carefully roped off for all to see but not sit in

Lake Martin | Alexander City
Hank Williams’ Cabin on Lake Martin is a small, white frame affair where Williams and Fred Rose, his friend and a giant in the music publishing business, wrote blockbusters “Kaw-Liga” and “Your Cheatin’ Heart.”
The cabin is now on the property of Children’s Harbor, a camp for sick and disabled children. The two-bedroom building is available for rent. Online: childrensharbor.com.

Kowaliga Restaurant
This restaurant, now serving a menu of cheeseburgers and catfish, sits at the water’s edge of Lake Martin. Inside, a carved statue of the Indian Kowaliga, whose story was the inspiration for Williams’ song “Kaw-Liga” guards the entrance. Online: kowaligarestaurant.com.

by Anne Braly

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Plan to Experience Mesa's Foodie Trail

8/22/2023

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The best way to map Mesa’s Fresh Foodie Trail (visitmesa.com/fresh-foodie) is not your typical food trail featuring restaurants only. It’s about where our food comes from - a celebration of the farms that grow our food. 
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Agritourism is a trend that doesn’t appear to be going anywhere, and along the Fresh Foodie Trail, there are 10 farms and dairies where visitors can tour and sample produce and other foods fresh from the fields. The growing season is year round in Mesa, Ariz.,  so there’s always something delicious to discover.

“The trail takes a different approach to wellness by letting people know where their food comes from instead of going to a spa or other type of wellness vacation,” says Zoey Shircel, associate manager of media relations for Visit Mesa. And, she adds, March through May are the best times to visit. It’s the time of year when the temperatures are pleasant enough to enjoy being outside and visiting the farms and the adventures that await.

You won’t find an overwhelming number of restaurant chains in the area. It’s all about farm-to-table freshness. Chefs take full advantage of their place on Earth, visiting farms, alongside a growing number of locals and tourists, to select the freshest ingredients to take back to their kitchens, creating mouthwatering dishes that wow diners. And visitors can pick vegetables from the fields or from the numerous farmers markets found along the path.

Eat Fresh
Take a tour at Queen Creek Olive Mill and learn about the process of making extra-virgin olive oil from tree to table, then enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner at a table in the olive grove. Take some home, too. The gift shop is filled with dozens of flavors, from traditional tastes to bacon, Meyer lemon, roasted garlic and other flavored oils. Vinegars, too. Go to queencreekolivemill.com.

Farm-to-table, field-to-fork, whatever name you want to give it, the level of dining you’ll find at Schnepf Farms (schnepffarms.com) has gone beyond a trend to become an expected experience when eating at a chef-driven restaurant. Few, though, allow guests to meet the chef in the field, pick their own produce, learn new recipes by using those foods, and enjoy a meal later in the day as part of its Foraging With the Farmer, an experience that’s offered during the farm’s non-festival months of January, February, April and May. The 300-acre farm is the site of festivals 100 days out of the year, such as autumn’s Pumpkin and Chili Party Festival or its Peach Festival held in early spring.

Schnepf’s is a working farm, but also features the Cozy Peach glampground filled with fully restored vintage Airstreams, something of which many take advantage when attending festivals or cooking classes, or simply wanting a different type of overnight experience when traveling the Mesa Foodie Trail.

A Man With a Vision
Joe Johnston had a vision that, in 2000, became reality when his family farm - the land he grew up on - morphed into a marriage of agriculture and utopia. The result? Agritopia (agritopiafarm.com), a planned community that, in the midst of urban sprawl, maintains its ties to the land as a commercial certified-organic farm with a community garden, while making space for the modern age with homes, a retirement center, its own school system and a world-class dog park. Restaurants in Agritopia take full advantage of the fields outside their doors and bring in fresh produce and other foods from the area at places such as Barnone, a craftsman’s community that includes foods ranging from handcrafted cocktails to pizza and ice cream; Garage East, a winery where 99 percent of the wines are from Arizona; a coffee shop; and more delights. 

Today, Agritopia is a prime example of what can happen when citizens work together, returning to our roots without sacrificing modern needs.

Off the Farm
Bakeries, such as Proof Bread, and farms, such as Agritopia, sell their produce to area restaurants, so if you can’t make a trip to the farm, you’ll find them represented on menus far and wide throughout Maricopa County. Old Ellsworth Brewing Company (oldellsworthbrewing.com) has a Brewben that will knock your socks off and, like many of its sandwiches, uses local breads. What’s Crackin’ Egg Cafe (whatscrackincafe.com) uses locally sourced ingredients for many of its brunch dishes. The popular bruschetta boards at Postino (postinowinecafe) are made with local breads spread with ingenious toppings. And grocery store-turned-restaurant, Liberty Market (libertymarket.com) is known for its appreciation of local ingredients, including a savory vegan bowl with sweet potatoes, fresh herbs, greens and avocado blended with Forbidden rice.

What’s all the Buzz About?
The rich soil and excellent growing climate make for a wealth of produce coming from the gardens along the Fresh Foodie Trail. But all its deliciousness would not be possible without a healthy honeybee population, and Mesa’s Alveole, a division of Urban Beekeeping Company, an international corporation, is a vital partner in making all the sweet goodness happen.

“We need them to pollinate our citrus and vegetable plants,” says Mark Freeman, owner of Freeman Farms, a farm with a farmer’s market that sells produce from its area fields, as well as welcoming other farmers to sell their produce. 

Alveole has 24 hives installed around the Mesa area, from area farms to rooftops in urban areas.

“Helping the environment impacts us all,” says beekeeper Amanda Harder. “It’s all about sustainability, and over time, we can grow the honeybee population.”

A Vertical Climb
You’ll need to look up to see the gardens at True Garden, where plants grow aeroponically and vertically on tall cylindrical towers. Vegetables and herbs are planted in small holes along the tower and fed by water infused with nutrients. It’s a soilless growing system that local compounding pharmacist Troy Albright introduced to help reduce the area’s agricultural water consumption while providing a better way to eat for those in his community. 

It’s the first of its kind in the Southwest and is catching on quickly as chefs come “shopping” for fresh greens, and gardeners come to buy seedlings to transplant into their own gardens or aeroponic systems.

Tours, which include tastings of the more than 100 different healthy plants growing in a greenhouse filled with towers of greens, are offered for 10 or more. Stop in for a tour or to learn more about how to set up a system in your own home. Classes are offered monthly. Visit truegarden.com for more information.

Take a Hike
After eating your fill at farms and eateries along the Fresh Foodie Trail, Maricopa County has an extensive choice of trails to get some exercise. Usery Mountain Regional Park (maricopacountyparks.net) is a 3,600-acre park for both equestrians and hikers, with trails that snake through the upper Sonoran Desert.

The Vista Trail is one of its easiest. It’s a short hike, taking about an hour’s walk up a small mountain and back down again. At its peak is a stunning view of the Superstition Mountains, where it’s said a German miner, Jacob Waltz, hit the jackpot as he mined for gold. His treasure is hidden somewhere on the mountain, and countless hunters have looked for it - and continue to do so - to no avail. Along the Vista Trail, you’ll see numerous varieties of cacti and interesting rock formations. Wear sturdy shoes and be forewarned: Don’t touch the jumping cactus.

Go for the Gold
It’s believed that a cache of gold worth millions lies beneath the Goldfield Mountains. Only there’s no way of getting to it. Goldfield Mine was a successful venture until, in November 1897, the mine flooded following the failure of a local dam. Today, Goldfield has reopened as a major tourist attraction, Goldfield Ghost Town (goldfieldghosttown.com). It’s an amusement park that includes a tour of the abandoned mine, shops, a saloon, rides and more, all with a Western theme. There’s a two-seater zipline, too, that takes riders high above the town to get a birds-eye view of the old town of Goldfield as well as the surrounding desert and mountains. Or, stop by the saloon, and you’ll feel as if you’re back in the Wild West.

by Anne Braly
Annebraly.com
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