On the Cook's Shelf: July 2023

“Southern Cocktails” by Southern Living. IPG. 288 Pages. $30.

A new cookbook from Southern Living focuses on drinks that are popular with Southerners, both alcoholic and not. Most of these beverages are familiar to cocktail lovers but have a regional twist. They are examples of the current “craft cocktail craze,” according to Gary Crunkleton, owner of several bars in North Carolina and who wrote the foreword to this volume.

The book opens with examples of the shapes of glasses that traditionally hold these libations. Then the essential tools to make these drinks, including muddlers, jiggers, cocktail shakers, and ice picks are pictured. Next come types of garnishes, from pickled okra and cocktail onions to citrus twists and candied fruits.

Additionally, according to the book, the art of rimming your glass with salts or sugars is intended to “enhance, not overpower,” and there are multiple recipes for creating these enhancements. There are also instructions for making a variety of syrups, how to make and use bitters, and even how to create homemade grenadine.

Here are three spiked concoctions that are favorites. The first one was invented in the 60s but is still being enjoyed on Crimson Tide game days.


Alabama Slammer

• Citrus rim salt
• 1 ounce Southern Comfort
• 1 ounce amaretto
• 1/2 ounce sloe gin
• 3 ounces fresh orange juice
• 1/2 ounce fresh lemon juice

Citrus Rim Salt

• 2 Tbsp. lemon or orange zest 
• 1/2 cup kosher salt

Process the zest and 1/4 cup salt in a food processor until finely ground. Stir in the remaining salt. Evenly spread the mixture on a rimmed baking sheet, and let stand at room temperature until dry, about two hours. 

Store in airtight container in the refrigerator for up to one year. To serve, moisten rim of glass and dip in mixture.

Rim a highball glass with the rim salt; fill a glass with ice. Combine the Southern Comfort, amaretto, sloe gin, and orange and lemon juices in an ice-filled cocktail shaker. Cover with the lid, and shake vigorously until thoroughly chilled, about 20 seconds. Strain into the prepared glass. Garnish with an orange wedge and Maraschino cherry. Makes one serving.

This next drink is similar to a gimlet, but calls for the minty, citrusy, and flowery notes of this particular brand of gin.


Southside Seersucker

• 6 fresh mint leaves, plus more for
• garnish
• 3/4 ounce simple syrup
• 2 ounces Seersucker Southern Style Gin
• 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice

Muddle six mint leaves and the syrup in a cocktail shaker. Fill the shaker with ice and add the gin and lime juice. Cover with the lid, and shake vigorously until chilled, about 20 seconds. Strain into a chilled old-fashioned glass with additional mint leaves, if desired. Makes one serving.

The following drink, also a luscious dessert, is often served at the Flora-Bama Lounge in Perdido Key, Fla.

Redneck Riviera Bushwacker

• 1 -1/2 ounces white rum
• 1 ounce coconut rum
• 1 ounce Kahlúa
• 1 ounce crème de cacao
• 1 scoop vanilla bean ice cream
• 1 cup ice

Process the white and coconut rums, Kahlúa, crème de cacao, ice cream, and ice in a blender until smooth. Pour the mixture into a hurricane glass, and garnish with whipped cream and chocolate syrup. Serve with a straw or iced tea spoon.  Makes one serving.

So popular today that there are establishments that serve only “virgin” drinks, non-alcoholic mocktails follow. Next is a spin on a Moscow Mule.


Pineapple Mock Mule

• 2 Tsp. herb rim salt made with fresh
• mint
• 2 ice cubes plus more for glass
• 2 (1/4-inch thick) fresh ginger slices
• 2 ounces pineapple juice
• 1/2 ounce white balsamic vinegar
• 4 ounces nonalcoholic ginger beer
• Garnish: pineapple wedge

Herb Rim Salt

• 1/2 cup fresh, tender herbs, such as basil, mint or cilantro
• 1 cup coarse kosher salt 

     
Process the herbs and salt in a food processor until the herbs are finely chopped and the mixture is combined. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to five days.

Rim a highball glass with the herb rim sugar using mint. Fill the prepared glass with ice.
Muddle the ginger, pineapple juice, and vinegar in a cocktail shaker. Add two ice cubes, cover with the lid, and shake vigorously until thoroughly chilled, about 30 seconds. Strain into the prepared glass. Top with the ginger beer.

“Southern Cocktails” concludes with a good selection of what it dubs “bar snacks. These hors d’oeuvres are sure to be devoured by your guests and will enhance whatever spiked and non-spiked libations you choose to serve.

What turns traditional stuffed grape leaves into these Southern gems is that they feature Vidalia onions and pecans.

Down South Dolmades

• 2 Tbsp. olive oil
• 1 3/4 cups finely chopped Vidalia onion (1 medium onion)
• 3 garlic cloves, minced (about 1 Tbsp.)
• 1 cup uncooked white rice
• 1/2 cup chopped pecans
• 1-1/2 cups water
• 1-1/2 Tsp. kosher salt
• 1/2 Tsp. Greek seasoning
• 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
• 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh mint
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
• 1 Tsp. lemon zest plus 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
• 1/2 (16-ounce) jar grape leaves, rinsed and patted dry (36 leaves)
• 3 cups chicken stock
• 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Preheat oven to 325.

Heat two tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Add the onion and garlic; cook, stirring often, until translucent, four to five minutes. Add the rice and pecans; cook, stirring often, until coated and slightly toasted, one to two minutes. Add the water, salt, and Greek seasoning. Cover and bring to a simmer; reduce the heat to low, and simmer 12 minutes. Stir in the parsley, mint, dill, and lemon zest. Cook slightly, 10 to 15 minutes.

Arrange a row of the grape leaves, vein-side up, on a work surface. Place 1-1/2 tablespoons of the rice mixture just below the center of each leaf. Fold the bottom of the leaf up and over the filling, and fold sides in toward the center, gently roll up (Do not wrap too tightly.)

Transfer the rolls, seam-side down, to a 13-by-9-inch baking dish. Bring the stock to a simmer in a saucepan over high. Pour over the rolled grape leaves in the dish. Drizzle with the lemon juice. Top with another 13-by-9-inch baking dish or an overproof heavy plate to weigh down slightly, cover with aluminum foil, and bake at 325 for 45 minutes. Remove from the cooking liquid, and pat dry. Drizzle the rolls with 1/4 cup of the extra-virgin olive oil and serve at room temperature. Makes 12 servings.

Blue Cheese-and-Pecan Stuffed Cherry Peppers

• 4 ounces cream cheese, softened
• 2 1/3 ounces crumbled blue cheese (about 6 Tbsp.)
• 6 Tbsp. heavy cream
• 1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. finely chopped toasted pecans
• 3 (16-ounce jars) cherry peppers,​ drained (50 to 60 cherry peppers)
• 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced fresh chives

Place the cream cheese, blue cheese, and heavy cream in a medium bowl. Beat with an electric mixer on medium-high speed until well blended and light and fluffy. Stir in 1/2 cup finely chopped pecans. Spoon the mixture into a piping bag fitted with a 3/4-inch-wide tip, and pipe about one tablespoon of the mixture into the open end of each pepper. Place the peppers on a platter, and sprinkle with the remaining two tablespoons pecans. Sprinkle the chives evenly over the stuffed peppers. Serve immediately, or chill until ready to serve. Makes 20 servings.