“Everyday Dorie: The Way I Cook.” By Dorie Greenspan. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. 357 pages. $35.
This book is not Greenspan’s latest, but it is one of her best, in my opinion. It presents dishes that are not too complicated with ingredients that are easily available. The author says that the recipes are for “the food I make all the time,” and I think you will want to add them to your repertoire.
I was inspired to pore over this book, published a few years back, after reading Louise Penny’s monthly newsletter where she talked about some of her upcoming book talks in Canada, and how she was looking forward to visiting with Dorie Greenspan and her husband Michael in Paris. (You can check it out and subscribe at [email protected].) It reminded me that lots of Greenspan’s menu items are especially appropriate for spring.
Greenspan writes that she likes to “sneak in a little surprise” in her cooking. Thus, she might add some walnuts and oats to her meatballs, or cranberries to her beef stew. She says these additions are often prompted by the fact that she has a leftover in her fridge that is just begging to be used.
“These recipes, most of which are simple, turn out food that’s comforting, satisfying, inviting and so often surprising. I love when there’s something unexpected in a dish, especially when it’s in a dish we think we know well.”
The first recipe included here today is for a salad that delights in both its appearance and its taste. Who doesn’t love fresh berries, tangy grapefruit, and smooth avocado?
Spring Avocado and Berry Salad
Section the grapefruit, squeeze the juice left in the membranes into a small bowl, and reserve. Squeeze 2 tablespoons lime juice (from 1 large lime or 2 smaller ones). Put 1 ½ tablespoons of the grapefruit juice and the lime juice in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Add the sugar, a big pinch of salt, some black pepper, and the oil and shake vigorously to blend. Taste to see if you want to adjust the seasonings and set aside.
Slice the strawberries. You can make the salad ahead up to this point a few hours ahead, refrigerate the grapefruit and berries, and keep the vinaigrette at room temperature.
When you’re ready to serve, cut the remaining lime in half. Working with one avocado at a time, slice each one in half from top to bottom, remove the pit and cut each half into long, slender slices - you’ll get 6 to 8 slices from each half. Lay the slices out on a platter and immediately sprinkle them with lime juice. Season with salt and pepper. Scatter over the grapefruit and strawberries, followed by the jalapeno, pink peppercorns - pinch them between your fingertips to crack them - a few grinds of black pepper, and another squeeze or two of lime juice. Shake the vinaigrette to blend again and drizzle it over the salad; you may not need it all. Finish with cilantro, basil, and a sprinkle of salt. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
All the rage these days, the next recipe is a one-pan version that will come together quickly and leave you time to set the table, whip up a side dish, and even relax for a minute before you eat. You can substitute chicken breasts for the whole chicken legs.
Balsamic Chicken with Baby Potatoes and Mushrooms
Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 450 degrees. Rub a baking sheet with a little oil or line it with foil and oil the foil.
Put the potatoes, mushrooms, shallot or onion, and garlic in a large bowl. Toss in four springs each of the rosemary and thyme, one teaspoon salt, a few grindings of pepper, three tablespoons of the oil, and three tablespoons of the balsamic. Mix everything well and spread the ingredients out on the baking sheet.
Put the chicken in the bowl, along with the remaining oil, balsamic, half teaspoon salt, and a good amount of pepper, and mix well to coat the chicken. Tuck the remaining herbs under each piece.
Roast the chicken for 40 minutes to one hour, until a thermometer stuck into the thickest part of a thigh measures 165 degrees.
Serve everything on the baking sheet or a big platter; pour over the cooking juices. Makes four servings.
The last recipe is for a side that combines Brussels sprouts with sweet maple syrup and savory mustard. The crunchy bacon that’s tossed in at the last moment makes the dish even more memorable.
Maple Syrup and Mustard Brussels Sprouts
Set up a steamer. Season the Brussels sprouts with salt and pepper and toss them with the garlic and shallot. Steam the sprouts until the tip of a small knife can easily poke into but not completely pierce them, eight to 10 minutes. Remove the sprouts from the steamer and set them aside. If you are doing this ahead of time, dunk them in ice water or run cold water over them to stop the cooking then pat them dry. You can cook them one day ahead and store in refrigerator. Bring to room temperature or warm them by cooking gently before proceeding.
While the sprouts are steaming, cook the bacon in a large saucepan or high-sided skillet until crisp. Drain it on paper towels, then coarsely chop into bite-sized pieces Set the pan aside.
Mix the maple syrup and mustard together.
Pour off all but about one tablespoon of the bacon fat from the skillet and add the olive oil to the pan. Turn the heat to high, and when the oil is shimmering, add the Brussels sprouts. Cook, turning a few times, until the sprouts are charred here and there and crisp-tender. Lower the heat to medium and stir in the maple-mustard mixture. Cook, stirring, until the sprouts are uniformly glazed. Stir in the bacon, season with salt and pepper, then taste and add more syrup and/or mustard, if needed. If you’d like a touch of acidity, add a splash of vinegar.
Serve immediately. Makes four servings.
by Karin Glendenning
This book is not Greenspan’s latest, but it is one of her best, in my opinion. It presents dishes that are not too complicated with ingredients that are easily available. The author says that the recipes are for “the food I make all the time,” and I think you will want to add them to your repertoire.
I was inspired to pore over this book, published a few years back, after reading Louise Penny’s monthly newsletter where she talked about some of her upcoming book talks in Canada, and how she was looking forward to visiting with Dorie Greenspan and her husband Michael in Paris. (You can check it out and subscribe at [email protected].) It reminded me that lots of Greenspan’s menu items are especially appropriate for spring.
Greenspan writes that she likes to “sneak in a little surprise” in her cooking. Thus, she might add some walnuts and oats to her meatballs, or cranberries to her beef stew. She says these additions are often prompted by the fact that she has a leftover in her fridge that is just begging to be used.
“These recipes, most of which are simple, turn out food that’s comforting, satisfying, inviting and so often surprising. I love when there’s something unexpected in a dish, especially when it’s in a dish we think we know well.”
The first recipe included here today is for a salad that delights in both its appearance and its taste. Who doesn’t love fresh berries, tangy grapefruit, and smooth avocado?
Spring Avocado and Berry Salad
- 1 Ruby Red grapefruit
- 2 or 3 limes
- Tiny pinch of sugar
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 6 large or 9 medium strawberries, hulled
- 2 large ripe but firm avocados
- 1/2 jalapeno, seeded and finely diced or sliced
- About 1/2 Tsp. pink peppercorns
- Fresh cilantro leaves
- A few fresh basil leaves, torn
Section the grapefruit, squeeze the juice left in the membranes into a small bowl, and reserve. Squeeze 2 tablespoons lime juice (from 1 large lime or 2 smaller ones). Put 1 ½ tablespoons of the grapefruit juice and the lime juice in a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Add the sugar, a big pinch of salt, some black pepper, and the oil and shake vigorously to blend. Taste to see if you want to adjust the seasonings and set aside.
Slice the strawberries. You can make the salad ahead up to this point a few hours ahead, refrigerate the grapefruit and berries, and keep the vinaigrette at room temperature.
When you’re ready to serve, cut the remaining lime in half. Working with one avocado at a time, slice each one in half from top to bottom, remove the pit and cut each half into long, slender slices - you’ll get 6 to 8 slices from each half. Lay the slices out on a platter and immediately sprinkle them with lime juice. Season with salt and pepper. Scatter over the grapefruit and strawberries, followed by the jalapeno, pink peppercorns - pinch them between your fingertips to crack them - a few grinds of black pepper, and another squeeze or two of lime juice. Shake the vinaigrette to blend again and drizzle it over the salad; you may not need it all. Finish with cilantro, basil, and a sprinkle of salt. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
All the rage these days, the next recipe is a one-pan version that will come together quickly and leave you time to set the table, whip up a side dish, and even relax for a minute before you eat. You can substitute chicken breasts for the whole chicken legs.
Balsamic Chicken with Baby Potatoes and Mushrooms
- 1 1/2 pounds small potatoes, scrubbed and halved if large
- 1/2 pound white mushrooms, wiped clean, trimmed and cut in half if large
- 1 large shallot or medium onion, cut into 8 wedges rinsed and patted dry
- 4 garlic cloves, unpeeled
- 8 springs fresh rosemary
- 8 springs fresh thyme
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- 4 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
- 4 whole skin-on chicken legs, patted dry
Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 450 degrees. Rub a baking sheet with a little oil or line it with foil and oil the foil.
Put the potatoes, mushrooms, shallot or onion, and garlic in a large bowl. Toss in four springs each of the rosemary and thyme, one teaspoon salt, a few grindings of pepper, three tablespoons of the oil, and three tablespoons of the balsamic. Mix everything well and spread the ingredients out on the baking sheet.
Put the chicken in the bowl, along with the remaining oil, balsamic, half teaspoon salt, and a good amount of pepper, and mix well to coat the chicken. Tuck the remaining herbs under each piece.
Roast the chicken for 40 minutes to one hour, until a thermometer stuck into the thickest part of a thigh measures 165 degrees.
Serve everything on the baking sheet or a big platter; pour over the cooking juices. Makes four servings.
The last recipe is for a side that combines Brussels sprouts with sweet maple syrup and savory mustard. The crunchy bacon that’s tossed in at the last moment makes the dish even more memorable.
Maple Syrup and Mustard Brussels Sprouts
- 1 pound Brussels sprouts, regular or mini, trimmed and, if large, cut in half from top to bottom
- Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
- 1 to 2 garlic cloves, germ removed, cut into slivers
- 1 shallot, cut into slivers, rinsed, and patted dry
- 6 strips thick-cut bacon
- 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup
- 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard (grainy, smooth, or a mix, preferably French) or more to taste
- 1 Tbsp. olive oil
- Cider vinegar (optional)
Set up a steamer. Season the Brussels sprouts with salt and pepper and toss them with the garlic and shallot. Steam the sprouts until the tip of a small knife can easily poke into but not completely pierce them, eight to 10 minutes. Remove the sprouts from the steamer and set them aside. If you are doing this ahead of time, dunk them in ice water or run cold water over them to stop the cooking then pat them dry. You can cook them one day ahead and store in refrigerator. Bring to room temperature or warm them by cooking gently before proceeding.
While the sprouts are steaming, cook the bacon in a large saucepan or high-sided skillet until crisp. Drain it on paper towels, then coarsely chop into bite-sized pieces Set the pan aside.
Mix the maple syrup and mustard together.
Pour off all but about one tablespoon of the bacon fat from the skillet and add the olive oil to the pan. Turn the heat to high, and when the oil is shimmering, add the Brussels sprouts. Cook, turning a few times, until the sprouts are charred here and there and crisp-tender. Lower the heat to medium and stir in the maple-mustard mixture. Cook, stirring, until the sprouts are uniformly glazed. Stir in the bacon, season with salt and pepper, then taste and add more syrup and/or mustard, if needed. If you’d like a touch of acidity, add a splash of vinegar.
Serve immediately. Makes four servings.
by Karin Glendenning
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