The beginning of spring found me out in the yard, trying to beat into submission the overgrowth that had taken over my garden. It wasn’t without rewards, though: Beneath the weeds that sprouted from bird seed and the poison ivy that sprouted as soon as my back was turned, lay the remains of what was once a pretty nice garden. And so it was - again.
The first order of business for this cook was, of course, an herb garden. The largest of the beds was just right for that. It’s in full sun from early morning until mid-afternoon and isn’t too far from a water source and the kitchen. Since its soil was compacted and mostly barren, all it needed to be made ready was to pull up a couple of dandelions, turn and aerate the soil, and supplement it with a little fresh potting soil and fertilizer.
My fingers and toes are crossed: I didn’t inherit my dad’s green thumb, and he’s no longer here to guide me; my luck with potted herbs has always been hit or miss. But so far, my beds of basil, lavender, rosemary, oregano, parsley, sage and thyme is taking root.
As summer heat sets in, it will be time to take a breather from garden archeology and spend time out of the sun bonding with my kitchen to use the fruits - and veggies - of my labor, the primary focus being on all the wonderful summer squashes I’ve been able to harvest from my garden and area farmer’s markets, along with my bountiful basil and trustworthy thyme plants.
One advantage of age and experience is that one can just cook and know when to leave well enough alone, in this case: squash casserole. There’s no need to gussy it up. Mother Nature provides enough seasoning in her summer produce as it is. Just a little salt and pepper - and as any Southerner knows, cheese, a necessary ingredient in any squash casserole - is all you need to turn the gourds of summer into a masterpiece on the table.
Summer Squash Casserole with Gruyere and Thyme
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees. Scrub the squash under cold running water and drain them. Trim the ends and slice them a little less than 1/4-inch thick. If they’re really fat, split them lengthwise before slicing them.
Put a tablespoon of the butter in a lidded 9-to 10-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cover the bottom with the onion. Lightly sprinkle it with salt, then top with a single layer of squash, season lightly with salt and, especially if the squash aren’t very fresh and naturally sweet, a pinch of sugar. Add the remaining squash and season lightly with salt and sugar. Cover and cook until they’re tender, about eight minutes, checking occasionally to make sure the natural moisture they’ve produced doesn’t completely evaporate. If it does, add a splash of water, as needed.
Lightly butter a 1 1/2- quart casserole. Cover the bottom with half of the soft crumbs. Spread half the squash and onions over them, season lightly with pepper, then scatter half the thyme and the remaining soft crumbs over them. Add the remaining squash and onions, season with pepper, and sprinkle it with the rest of the thyme.
Break the egg into a 2- to 4-cup measuring cup or bowl and lightly beat it. Add the milk and a pinch of salt and beat until smoothly mixed, then pour it evenly over the casserole until it just covers the squash (you may not need quite all of it). Sprinkle the Gruyere over the top.
Wipe out the skillet in which the squash and onion were cooked and put in the remaining butter. Melt it over medium-low heat, then sprinkle in the dry breadcrumbs and stir until they’re evenly coated. Stir it over the heat for about a minute, not letting the crumbs get crispy - just warm and buttered - then turn off the heat and sprinkle the crumbs over the casserole. Bake in the center of the oven until puffed, set at the center, and golden brown, about half an hour. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Makes about four servings.
Contact Anne Braly at [email protected] or annebraly.com.
The first order of business for this cook was, of course, an herb garden. The largest of the beds was just right for that. It’s in full sun from early morning until mid-afternoon and isn’t too far from a water source and the kitchen. Since its soil was compacted and mostly barren, all it needed to be made ready was to pull up a couple of dandelions, turn and aerate the soil, and supplement it with a little fresh potting soil and fertilizer.
My fingers and toes are crossed: I didn’t inherit my dad’s green thumb, and he’s no longer here to guide me; my luck with potted herbs has always been hit or miss. But so far, my beds of basil, lavender, rosemary, oregano, parsley, sage and thyme is taking root.
As summer heat sets in, it will be time to take a breather from garden archeology and spend time out of the sun bonding with my kitchen to use the fruits - and veggies - of my labor, the primary focus being on all the wonderful summer squashes I’ve been able to harvest from my garden and area farmer’s markets, along with my bountiful basil and trustworthy thyme plants.
One advantage of age and experience is that one can just cook and know when to leave well enough alone, in this case: squash casserole. There’s no need to gussy it up. Mother Nature provides enough seasoning in her summer produce as it is. Just a little salt and pepper - and as any Southerner knows, cheese, a necessary ingredient in any squash casserole - is all you need to turn the gourds of summer into a masterpiece on the table.
Summer Squash Casserole with Gruyere and Thyme
- 1 1/2 pounds yellow summer squash
- 1/2 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
- 1 1/2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
- Salt
- Sugar
- 2 slices white sandwich bread, crust
- removed, torn into soft crumbs
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 2-3 Tsp. chopped fresh thyme
- 1 large egg
- 1 cup whole milk
- 1/2 cup grated Gruyere
- 3 Tbsp. dry breadcrumbs
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees. Scrub the squash under cold running water and drain them. Trim the ends and slice them a little less than 1/4-inch thick. If they’re really fat, split them lengthwise before slicing them.
Put a tablespoon of the butter in a lidded 9-to 10-inch skillet over medium-low heat. Cover the bottom with the onion. Lightly sprinkle it with salt, then top with a single layer of squash, season lightly with salt and, especially if the squash aren’t very fresh and naturally sweet, a pinch of sugar. Add the remaining squash and season lightly with salt and sugar. Cover and cook until they’re tender, about eight minutes, checking occasionally to make sure the natural moisture they’ve produced doesn’t completely evaporate. If it does, add a splash of water, as needed.
Lightly butter a 1 1/2- quart casserole. Cover the bottom with half of the soft crumbs. Spread half the squash and onions over them, season lightly with pepper, then scatter half the thyme and the remaining soft crumbs over them. Add the remaining squash and onions, season with pepper, and sprinkle it with the rest of the thyme.
Break the egg into a 2- to 4-cup measuring cup or bowl and lightly beat it. Add the milk and a pinch of salt and beat until smoothly mixed, then pour it evenly over the casserole until it just covers the squash (you may not need quite all of it). Sprinkle the Gruyere over the top.
Wipe out the skillet in which the squash and onion were cooked and put in the remaining butter. Melt it over medium-low heat, then sprinkle in the dry breadcrumbs and stir until they’re evenly coated. Stir it over the heat for about a minute, not letting the crumbs get crispy - just warm and buttered - then turn off the heat and sprinkle the crumbs over the casserole. Bake in the center of the oven until puffed, set at the center, and golden brown, about half an hour. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Makes about four servings.
Contact Anne Braly at [email protected] or annebraly.com.
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