Everyone should have such a dilemma: Recently, I found myself with a large cache of lovely jumbo dry-packed sea scallops leftover in my freezer as I was trying to empty my icebox before our recent move. Since my daughter lives on the other end of the county, and her children don’t like seafood, and I wasn’t sure about any of my neighbors since I didn’t know their food preferences, it was up to us to use them. I was not about to let such a luxury go to waste.
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One of the lovely things about scallops is that they take no time at all to cook, and time was of the essence since the movers were due to come at 7 a.m. the following morning, and I still had a lot of packing to do that night. 

I made my way through packing boxes and garbage bags full of linens into the kitchen at 6 p.m., and a sumptuous yet simple supper was ready by 6:45.

It was, perhaps, a little too fancy for a weeknight supper, but then again, who would want beautiful scallops to go to waste? Certainly not me when they make such an easy dish, yet deliciously full of fresh flavors and textures.

A word to the wise: The “U” measure on scallops is the number of units that make up a pound. U-10 are the jumbo size that most restaurants use, and I always find mine at Don’s Meat Shop in Hixson. And, if you can, buy “dry-packed” scallops that have not been sprayed with preservatives. Otherwise, they won’t sear properly and will shed their precious juices that contain all those wonderful flavors.

Pan-Seared Scallops with Lemon-Scallion Capellini

• 8-12 large dry-packed scallops
• 2 Tbsp. butter
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 5 ounces capellini (angel hair) pasta
• 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into bits
• 1 lemon, one half left whole and the
• other cut into wedges
• 2 small, thin scallions, washed, trimmed and thinly sliced
• 2-3 Tbsp. freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, optional

Let the scallops sit for a few minutes at room temperature and thoroughly pat them dry with paper towels. Bring four quarts of water to a rolling boil in a large pot over high heat. Add enough butter to a well-seasoned cast-iron or nonstick pan to barely film the bottom. Put the pan over medium heat and let it get nice and hot.

Put the scallops in the pan and cook until their bottoms are well-seared and brown, about two minutes. Turn, sprinkle with several liberal grindings of pepper, and cook until the second side is nicely browned and the scallops are done to your taste, about two or three minutes longer or until done to your liking.

While the scallops cook, stir a handful of salt into the boiling water and then stir in the capellini. Cook until it is al dentē, starting to check it after about two minutes. 

Drain pasta, reserving a few spoonfuls of the cooking water, and return it to the hot pot. Add the butter in bits and toss until it is creamy and coating the pasta nicely. Add a spoonful or so of water if the “sauce” is not creamy enough. Squeeze in lemon juice from half lemon, to taste, and immediately add the scallions, tossing well. The heat of the pasta will cook them slightly. 

Season pasta with a few liberal grindings of pepper and add a dusting of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

When the scallops are done, place them on two plates, divide the pasta and lemon wedges among the plates, and serve immediately.

Recently, we ventured out into our new neighborhood in Big Ridge for a potluck gathering. It was the first time we’d done anything like it since our move, and I was a little out of practice with cooking for crowds, so my contribution was a standard dish that I could make without thinking about it - an extravagant but very easy potato gratin.

And as it always does, my gratin dish came home scraped clean.

It’s a simple concoction of thinly-sliced potatoes, cream and good cheese for which I can’t take any credit, since the recipe is a timeless classic French one, and my version was inspired by the one Ina Garten shared in her first Barefoot Contessa cookbook.

Perfect not only for potlucks but for any gathering, particularly during the upcoming holiday season, because it pairs with anything and is at home anywhere, from the most casual family buffet to the most formal white-cloth-and-silver laid tables. Best of all, it can be made ahead and gently reheated.

Those large russet potatoes that are sold loose in bins in the produce market are very large indeed, one of them weighing as much as a pound. Three of those are usually just right, but if the potatoes you’re using are smaller, you might need four or even five, so measure by weight rather than count. And the potatoes needn’t be russets: Yukon Golds are nice. Just make sure the ones you choose are mature and starchy.

If a really good genuine Gruyère isn’t available where you shop (I’d suggest the cheese department at Whole Foods for the best bet in finding it), use the best hard-grating cheese you can find. An aged, extra-sharp cheddar won’t be quite the same but is still very good, and preferable to a domestic so-called “Swiss” cheese.

And within reason, feel free to make it your own simply by adding herbs, or a bit of chopped ham, or, as Ms. Garten presented it, thinly-sliced sautéed fennel. Just keep in mind that good potatoes and cheese don’t need a lot of help, so keep it simple.

Classic Potato Gratin

• 2 large yellow onions (not sweet
• onions), thinly sliced
• 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
• 3 pounds russet (baking) potatoes,
• about 3-4 large
• 8 ounces Gruyère cheese, coarsely
• grated (about 2 1/2 cups)
• 2 cups (1 pint carton) heavy cream
• Salt and freshly grated black or white
• pepper
• Whole nutmeg in a grater
• 1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese,
• finely grated (about 1/4 cup)

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees. Butter a 3-quart gratin or baking dish. Put the onions and butter in a large pan over medium heat and sauté, stirring often, until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Scrub the potatoes under cold running water, peel, and thinly slice them with a really sharp knife (a ceramic one will keep them from discoloring) or use a mandolin

Put the potatoes in a large bowl and add the cream. Set aside half a cup of the Gruyère and add the rest to the potatoes along with the onions. Season liberally with salt, pepper and nutmeg and gently toss until well-mixed. Pour this into the casserole, spread evenly, then press down and level the top. Sprinkle with the remaining Gruyère and Parmigiano.

Bake in the center of the oven until it’s golden brown, bubbly to the center, and the potatoes are tender, about an hour and a half, or a little less depending on your oven and the dish you’ve used. Check after about 45 minutes and turn the dish if it appears to be browning unevenly. To test for doneness, insert a sharp paring knife or toothpick into the center. It should slip in easily with no resistance. Serve hot. Makes 10-12 servings.

Note: If you’re making it ahead, let it cool completely, then cover tightly with foil, making sure that it doesn’t touch the top of the gratin. If you’re making it more than four hours ahead, refrigerate it until about an hour and a half before you plan to serve it. Reheat it, still covered, in an oven preheated to 350 degrees, for about half an hour, or until it’s hot at the center, removing the foil during the last five minutes.

About 15 years ago, I bought my first air fryer and still have it today, though it no longer has the premier place on my kitchen counter. It was relegated to the downstairs kitchen/bar several years ago. Since then, I’ve had two others and have been very pleased with the most recent one, which I got three years ago. In that short amount of time, air fryers have changed drastically.

One of the newest to hit the market is from Gourmia, an air fryer that comes in several different colors - black, white, peach and green -  to give your kitchen a pop of color. Like many air fryers, it has a viewing window. But unlike many air fryers that have a small window, this one has a window that takes over the entire front, giving an expanded view of the food as it cooks. It also has an internal hologram display that shows the temperature and time remaining for whatever is cooking, and it bakes and roasts as well as reheats and air fries. Actually, it may even take the place of the toaster oven and possibly even the microwave. Pretty cool, right?

The only problem I have with this air fryer and, in fact, most new air fryers, is that care must be taken to limit the water in between the two front glass panels when you’re washing it; otherwise, the glass will become cloudy and take away from an otherwise brilliant design. 

Air fryers have also come down in price, just like microwaves that became work horses of the kitchen back in the 1980s. When microwaves first became widely available, they cost as much as $1,000. Now you can get them for under $100. The same goes for air fryers. Some are still rather pricey, but there are some excellent ones that are on the market for under $100. For instance, you can get the Gourmia at Walmart for $69.

Included in the box in which this air fryer came is a cookbook with some clever recipes that will work in any air fryer or, if you do not have an air fryer, will work equally well in a skillet on your stovetop, such as this recipe for salmon with a flavorful sesame crust. It’s light and healthy for a dinner that will keep you on the right track for safeguarding the resolutions you made on January 1. Remember those?
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The main benefit of air frying is that it allows you to cook food with significantly less oil - if any - resulting in a healthier option than traditional deep frying while still achieving a crispy texture. It’s ideal for those looking to reduce their fat intake, something we should all keep in mind. 


Sesame-Crusted Salmon


2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
2 Tsp. soy sauce
4 salmon filets, approximately 6
ounces each
1 Tbsp. untoasted sesame seeds


Preheat air fryer to 400 degrees. Combine butter and soy sauce, blending until well mixed. Brush one-quarter of the butter mixture on each filet. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, pressing them gently into the filets so they will adhere. Place salmon in air fryer and cook for 8-10 minutes or until just cooked through.

To round out a lovely May dinner in the sweetest fashion - and since strawberry season has rolled around once again - one can do no better than the classic Italian semifreddo. At first glance, the name seems contradictory, since it means “partly cold/frozen,” and yet the thing is actually completely frozen.

The usual explanation is that the light, mousse-like texture remains soft even when frozen solid, and doesn’t feel quite as cold in the mouth as gelato, sorbet or ice cream. It’s a composition of thickened egg yolks whipped with sugar and folded into whipped cream and sometimes, as is done here, well-beaten egg whites. It’s then spooned into a mold or loaf pan and frozen.

According to some Italian cooking authorities, it probably goes back no further than the late 19th century, making claims that it may have been the precursor of modern ice cream seem doubtful.

But let’s leave the explanations of its name and place in history to others. For our purposes, how it started isn’t terribly important. What matters is that it’s not only easy to make and requires no special equipment, it can be made several days ahead and is a delightfully impressive finish for any celebratory feast.

This luscious dessert is finished with a simple compote of the berries that flavor it, but if you want to really gild this lily, top it instead with a rich chocolate sauce - your favorite homemade or store-bought - and garnish it with a few sliced berries.

Strawberry Semifreddo

• 4 pints fresh strawberries
• About 1 1/4 cups sugar
• 3 large eggs, at room temperature
• 2 cups chilled heavy cream
• 3 Tbsp. orange liqueur
• Mint sprigs, for garnish, optional

Wash the berries and set aside 1 pint. Cap, core, and halve the remaining 3 pints and sprinkle them with about 1/4 cup sugar or to taste, and let stand until sugar is dissolved about 20-30 minutes. Coarsely puree them in a food processor or blender, pulsing. Don’t completely liquefy; you still want to have some small chunks.

Line a 9-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap. Separate the eggs, putting the whites in a clean glass or copper bowl and the yolks in the upper pot of a double boiler. Put 1 inch of water in the bottom of the double boiler. Bring it to a simmer. Gradually beat 1/2 cup of sugar and 1/4 cup water into the yolks and place the pan or bowl over the simmering water. Beat until it’s fluffy and ribbons thickly off the whisk. Remove the top boiler/bowl from over the simmering water and whisk until cooled.

Whip the egg whites until frothy, then sprinkle 1/4 cup sugar over them and continue whipping them until they form soft peaks. Using a chilled metal bowl and whisk or with a stand mixer, whip the cream to soft peaks. Fold the cream into the yolk mixture, then fold in the whites. Gently fold in the berry puree and 1 tablespoon of the liqueur. Spoon it into the prepared pan, level the top, and tap gently to get out any large air pockets. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze until firm, at least 4 hours, but preferably overnight. Keep frozen until ready to serve.
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An hour or so before serving, cap, core and slice the reserved pint of berries. Sprinkle them with sugar, to taste, and 2 tablespoons of liqueur. Set them aside to macerate for at least 45 minutes or up to an hour, stirring occasionally. When you’re ready to serve, remove the semifreddo from the freezer, uncover, invert it over a plate or platter, and lift away the pan. Remove the plastic wrap and cut it crosswise into six even slices. Divide them among serving plates, top with the macerated berries, garnish with mint, if desired, and serve at once.

As we move into the Christmas season, putting Thanksgiving in our rearview mirrors, I’m reminded of something the late cooking instructor Francoise DeMarks, a French transplant I met at an event in Colorado, once said of her cooking students. 

Whenever she taught a dish that was new, at least one of them was sure to say that he or she was going to make it for a dinner party the following weekend.

She admired that adventurous spirit because such a notion would never even occur to most of those in the small town she grew up in in Southern France. A meal offered to guests outside the family would be one they’d made hundreds of times, she said. One would never use guests as guinea pigs.

Well, as admirable as it may be, there’s a fine line between being adventurous and foolhardy. That tendency to play it safe with a party menu has a lot going for it, especially in this busy season of parties and other gatherings when we have so many things to think about other than having to worry if guests will like the new dish you’ve decided to make.

Remember: We call it “giving” a party for a reason. A party is - or should be - an occasion for being generous, not for showing off. Our focus ought to be on making our company feel welcomed and loved, not on how clever we can be.

Instead of trying to dazzle with something new and different, maybe the thing to do is rediscover something comfortable and beloved, like this lovely old standby -  meatballs warming in a chafing dish swimming in a rich, flavorful bourguignon sauce. It’s a dish that always seems welcome on a cocktail buffet, especially on a blustery winter’s evening. Meatballs in bourguignon sauce may be a bit retro and go in and out of fashion, but as long as they taste good, what does that matter?

These can also be offered as a main dish with buttered noodles or boiled potatoes.
Meatballs in Bourguignon Sauce 
 
For the meatballs:
• 2 thick slices firm, home-style bread
• Whole milk
• 1 1/2 pounds ground beef chuck
• 1/4 cup finely minced yellow onion
• 1 large or 2 medium cloves garlic, finely minced
• 1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley
• Salt and whole black pepper in a mill
• Olive or vegetable oil  

For the sauce:
• 2 slices extra-thick-cut bacon, diced
• 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and chopped fine
• 1 medium carrot, peeled and chopped fine
• 2 cloves garlic, mashed, peeled, and minced
• 2 ounces crimini or baby bella mushrooms, finely chopped (about 1 cup)
• 1/4 cup flour
• 3 cups French burgundy or pinot noir
• 2 cups beef broth
• 1 rounded Tbsp. tomato paste
• 1 Tbsp. fresh or 1 Tsp. dried thyme leaves
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 400 degrees. Put the bread in a large mixing bowl and drizzle enough milk over it to saturate it. Let it soak for one minute, or until the bread is well-saturated, then squeeze it dry, discarding the milk. Crumble the bread back into the bowl, then crumble in the beef. Add the onion, garlic, a large pinch of salt and a liberal grinding of pepper and mix well.

Generously rub a large-rimmed sheet pan with oil. Moisten your hands with water and shape the mixture into 1-inch balls, laying them on the prepared pan as you go with about 1/2-inch between. When all the meatballs have been shaped and placed on the pan, bake them in the center of the oven until they’re nicely browned, about 20 minutes. Remove them from the oven and let them cool enough to handle.

Meanwhile, make the sauce: put the bacon in a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until it’s browned and its fat is rendered. Add the onion and sauté until softened, about two minutes. Add the carrot and sauté two minutes longer. Add the mushrooms and sauté until beginning to color, about two minutes, then add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about half a minute more. 

Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables and stir until smooth and bubbly, then slowly stir in the wine and bring it to a boil, stirring constantly. Gradually stir in the broth, bring it back to a simmer, and cook, still stirring, until thickened, about three or four minutes. Add the tomato paste, thyme, and bay leaf, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Let it come back to a simmer and cook for five minutes, stirring occasionally.

With a slotted spoon, transfer the meatballs to the sauce, allowing the excess fat to drain away while they’re still over the baking pan. Let it come back to a boil, and lower the heat to a slow, steady simmer. Loosely cover and simmer until the sauce is thick and the meatballs are infused with its flavor, about one hour. Remove and discard the bay leaf. 

This can be made up to four days ahead: Cool, cover and refrigerate until needed, then gently reheat in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium-low heat or in a slow cooker set on high. Serve them from a chafing dish or a slow cooker set to warm.

It was a crisp fall evening in my early days of journalism at the Chattanooga Times Free Press, and with three young daughters, the thought of some free time during some pressing deadlines was a rarity. But it did happen on occasion, so in my small kitchen on Lookout Mountain, I often spent whatever free time I had experimenting, puttering and, naturally, nibbling, along with my three little helpers.

One afternoon on the way home, I remember stopping at the Red Food Store on Broad Street - that takes us back a little, right? Pork chops were on sale, so I picked some up and made the trek up the mountain.

This was when my cookbook collection consisted of a 1980s copy of “Joy of Cooking,” “Charleston Receipts,” and an old worn-out copy of “From Julia Child’s Kitchen.” Maybe there were a couple more, but that was about it. Nothing compared to the voluminous cookbook library I have today. 

A quick look through one of those - who knows which one - turned up pork chops with apples baked on a bed of sauerkraut. An interesting idea, and though my children wouldn’t touch the sauerkraut, I knew they’d enjoy the pork chops and apples.

It was soon in the oven, and I settled in with a glass of wine and the occasional interruption of someone needing help with homework. 

Not every experiment in that little kitchen had such a happy ending. But after four decades and, admittedly, a few culinary disasters, I still go back to this dish, especially in the fall when apples are in season and the thought of the season of comfort food is tugging at my soul.

Oven-Braised Pork Chops with Apples and Sauerkraut
This recipe is easily doubled for four.

• 2 (1-inch-thick) center-cut pork loin chops
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 thick-cut slices of bacon, diced
• 1 small yellow onion, diced
• 2 medium tart apples such as Winesap
• or Granny Smith, washed, cored, peeled, and diced 
• 3 cups sauerkraut, rinsed and drained
• 1 Tbsp. light brown sugar
• 1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
• 1/2 cup semi-sweet white wine, such as Riesling

Position a rack in center of the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees. Wrap the pork chops with paper towels and pat them dry. Unwrap and season them well with salt and pepper.

Sauté the bacon in a heavy-duty skillet over medium heat until golden brown. Remove it with a slotted spoon and drain it on paper towels. Add the chops and brown them well (about four minutes per side). Remove them and spoon off most of the fat.

Add the onion and sauté until translucent and golden, about five minutes. Add the apples and toss until hot through. Pour in the wine, stirring and scraping pan to loosen the cooking residue, then mix in the kraut, brown sugar, mustard and reserved bacon. Season with pepper, to taste, stir well, and level the top with a spatula. Lay the chops on top, cover tightly, and bake in center of the oven until the meat is cooked through and tender, about one hour.

Uncover and let them rest for 5-10 minutes before serving. Serve hot.

It’s the height of the season for tomatoes, that time of year to which we all look forward. After waiting 12 months, suffering through the taste of pasty tomatoes, the time has arrived for summer’s favorite fruit - or vegetable, if you must.
Heirloom tomatoes are a relatively new thing. Baby boomers may remember when red tomatoes were all there were. But now, tomatoes come in so many colors - purple, yellow, green … a rainbow of deliciousness. And they look even prettier when sliced and arranged on a platter.

One of my favorite ways to serve them is an old Southern favorite - a Southern Tomato Cracker Salad. I’d always heard of this treat, but never tried it until last summer, thinking that the juice from the tomatoes would do nothing more than create a messy plate with soggy crackers. But that wasn’t so when I made it. The crackers are seasoned and toasted, a process that makes them a bit sturdier and able to stand up to the sweet juice from the summer gems.

The salad is simple to put together and also easy to transport for a summer picnic. Just wait until the blanket is spread out on the ground, the wine is open and decanting, the hors d’oeuvres have been passed. Then it’s time to assemble the salad and let picnickers revel in the delight of a beautiful platter of vine-ripened tomatoes almost to pretty to destroy.

Think of Tomato Cracker Salad as a tomato sandwich, but much more attractive than a mash-up of tomatoes and mayonnaise on white bread.

Tomato Cracker Salad is layered with fresh herbs, sweet summer corn and garlicky crisped crispy crackers seasoned with butter and garlic salt. As Southerners, we know that everything’s better with butter, including our beloved Saltines.

Southern Tomato Cracker Salad

• 12 saltine crackers
• 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
• 3/4 Tsp. garlic salt, divided
• 1 1/2 cups mayonnaise, preferably
• Duke’s
• 2 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives
• 1 Tbsp. apple cider vinegar
• 2 1/2 pounds tomatoes, assorted sizes
• and colors, sliced
• Freshly cracked black pepper
• 1 cup fresh corn kernels (1 ear)
• 2-3 Tbsp. fresh basil ribbons

Preheat oven to 375. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper, and place crackers in a single layer on prepared baking sheet. Brush tops of crackers liberally with melted butter; sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon of the garlic salt. Bake until crisp, golden brown and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Cool completely, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, stir together mayonnaise, chives, apple cider vinegar and remaining half teaspoon garlic salt in a small bowl.

Spread mayonnaise mixture evenly on a large platter. Arrange tomato slices on top of mayonnaise mixture, overlapping slightly. Season tomatoes with pepper to taste; sprinkle with corn. Just before serving, coarsely crush crackers over salad and sprinkle with basil. Serve immediately.

With the warming of the season, heavy desserts are in our rear-view mirrors, and we’re now delighting in the cold creaminess of ice cream.

You can always go to your favorite grocery store and pick up a gallon or two, but why not make it yourself without the need of an ice-cream freezer? There are numerous no-churn recipes, and lately, I’ve been experimenting with several of them to come up with a creamy, flavorful version.

Some call for canned pie topping, which I’ve found doesn’t make the flavor come through very well. Others call for putting the finished product in your refrigerator’s freezer, then taking it out and stirring every 30 minutes during the first three hours to prevent the formation of ice crystals. That simply takes too much time and is totally unnecessary.

What I found to work perfectly, making the ice cream just as smooth, if not smoother, than what you can get in the store, is to gently press plastic wrap over the surface of the ice cream and cover the top of the container with another piece of plastic wrap, then put it in the freezer and leave it alone. It’s best - creamy and hard with no ice crystals - after about 18 hours.

Besides being a delicious alternative to homemade ice cream that has many more steps involved, no-churn ice cream is egg-free, making it ideal for those with egg allergies. I have one in my family - my youngest grandson - so egg-free ice cream is a real treat when he comes over.

If you make it today, you’ll have it ready for dessert tomorrow evening. It’s easy to make your own, taking less than 15 minutes from start to finish.

Cream Cheese-Cherry No-Churn Ice Cream

• 1 1/2 cups whipping cream
• 1 (10-ounce) jar maraschino cherries
• 1 (8-ounce) package light or regular
• cream cheese, softened
• 1 can sweetened condensed milk
• (nonfat is okay)

With an electric or stand mixer, whip cream until stiff peaks form. Scrape into another bowl and set aside.
While cream is whipping, drain cherries, reserving juice. Remove stems from cherries, if needed, and roughly chop.

In the bowl of the mixer, beat cream cheese and sweetened condensed milk together until smooth. Add 1/3 cup of reserved cherry juice to mixture and stir until well incorporated. Add chopped cherries.

Fold whipped cream into cream cheese mixture carefully by hand. Pour mixture into a loaf pan or other container, and, if you want to, gently pour a little more of the cherry juice on top and draw a knife through the ice cream so cherry swirls appear. Cover with plastic wrap, placing wrap directly on top of mixture and gently pressing it onto the surface of the ice cream. This will help prevent formation of ice crystals. Cover top of container with another sheet of plastic wrap or lid.

Freeze until desired firmness, 8-10 hours or overnight.

Note: This recipe is quite versatile and equally good for chocolate ice cream. Substitute one cup chocolate sauce for the cherries and cherry juice, blend it with the cream cheese-condensed milk mixture, fold in the whipped cream and pour into a loaf pan. To finish - for effect and for extra chocolatey deliciousness - drizzle a quarter cup chocolate sauce over the top and pull a knife through it, creating swirls as you go. Then, cover and freeze.

Surely one of the best fragrances of fall is the heady aroma of fresh local apples baking in a pie. Maybe ones you’ve picked up at Chattanooga Market or from any of dozens of farmer’s markets around the area. For many Americans, apple pie baking in the oven is ones the best smells of the season - the subtle smell of falling leaves and of toasting pecans, football games, and mulled cider all rolled into one.

Throughout our culinary history, our cookbooks, from Amelia Simmons’s apple pie in “American Cookery” in the 18th century, right on through the newest tomes, like America’s Test Kitchen’s Salty Apple-Raspberry Crisp in “Gatherings,” have reflected our love affair with apple-stuffed pastry.

Originally considered breakfast fare, the pie that everything else is supposed to be “as American as” today knows no culinary boundaries. Unfortunately, it also knows almost no respect. You can still find it everywhere, but you’ll rarely find one that’s worth eating. The only store-bought apple pie I’ve ever thought about buying more than once is from, of all places, Cracker Barrel.

What mostly passes for America’s favorite pie today is an indifferent slab of commercially made pastry encasing chunks of canned apple filling - is there anything worse? Canned apple pie filling tastes mostly of sugar and not much else, and my mother would be turning in her grave should she discover I’d served a pie with apple pie filling. The only thing worse is when it arrives topped with a gooey slice of that so-called “American” cheese.

No thank you.

If you’re going to eat pie, for heaven’s sake make it a pie that’s worth the calories, and don’t go settling for one of those dull factory-made crusts just because your pastry skills are not what they should be. Pastry is simple stuff: All it takes is care and practice. But meanwhile, here’s a favorite with a simple shortbread crust that is completely artless and practically foolproof. If you’re in a hurry and happen to have some Girl Scout shortbread cookies - or buy some shortbread cookies - you can bypass making your own from scratch, chopping them finely and adding melted butter, much like you would graham crackers for a graham cracker crust. I think you’ll find making your own so much better and just as simple, though.


Apple Tart with Shortbread Crust

• 10 ounces (about 2 cups) all-purpose
• flour
• 2 Tbsp. white cornmeal
• 1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar
• 1/4 Tsp. salt
• 2 sticks unsalted butter, cut into bits
• 2 lemons
• 4 large tart apples such as Arkansas
• Black, Winesap or Granny Smith
• 4-6 Tbsp. turbinado sugar
• 2 Tbsp. bourbon
• Dash of nutmeg

For crust: Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 375 degrees. Put the flour, cornmeal, sugar and salt in a bowl and lightly whisk to mix. Add the butter and work it into the flour until it makes a fairly smooth dough. This can be done in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Put in the flour, sugar and salt; pulse to sift. Add the butter and process until it resembles coarse meal. Turn out and finish blending it by hand. Press the dough evenly into the bottom and up the sides of a 12-inch round removable-bottom tart pan. Prick it well with a fork and bake 10 minutes.

Cut the zest from both lemons in fine strips with a zester or remove with a vegetable peeler and cut with a knife. Halve the lemons and juice them through a strainer into a glass or stainless steel bowl. Peel, core and cut the apples into thin, straight slices, then add them to the juice, tossing to coat so that they won’t oxidize as quickly.

Sprinkle the crust with an even coating of the turbinado sugar and arrange the apple slices over it in a single layer of overlapping concentric rings. Sprinkle lightly with more turbinado sugar, lemon zest and bourbon. Sprinkle lightly with nutmeg.
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Bake in the center of the oven until the apples are golden and tender, about 40 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes before removing the rim. Serve warm or at room temperature with a dollop of whipped cream or a scoop of vanilla ice cream, if desired.
Contact Anne Braly at [email protected] or www.annebraly.com.